Concerning Transmission and Transfer Case Rebuilds

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Corey

Please keep us posted on what you find out about the 600W as used in Fords. I'll be particularly interested in what period Ford or Ford products it relates to such as 1930s-1940s, prewar or early post war.

I've just started on a non CMP big Ford flat head project a 1949 Lincoln which uses an F8 Ford truck engine.

The Mobil site has some interesting information, have to print it out and take it with me to talk with local supplier, they tend to pretend something doesn't exist if they don't stock it. Wonder if the 600w is what was used in the steering boxes.

Cheers Phil

[Corey Myronuk]

i did some more digging last night and it seems that for anthing with spur,spiral or bevel gears the 600w is whats recomended.even in winches and such.the 600w clings to the gear tooth face to cusion the impact of the next tooth on its inital contact where a gear lube is shed and just leaves a film for the sliding of the helical gear surfaces.
so my best guess would be gl for helical transfer cases wih the correct additive package for yellow metals and hypoid rear ends. im leaning toward the texaco 680 for spur and bevel..looks like the best combination of properties to me.i saw a reference to 1200w in steering gears but that may be too stiff in an evironment outside of the philipines..haha.the numbers 600w 1200w etc arnt a measure ov viscosiy they are product names..so get the data sheet.ill forward all the ifo i can..very cool on the 8eq project..im in proces of building one for my f60l

[Corey Myronuk]

ok.i stopped in at the chevron cardlock on united blvd in coquitlam and ordered up a 20l pail of the 680.

price was $79.80 it may come in tomorrow if they got my order in in time.tuesday is their shipping day so worst case itll be a week to wait.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Corey Myronuk

the 600w clings to the gear tooth face to cusion the impact of the next tooth on its inital contact where a gear lube is shed and just leaves a film for the sliding of the helical gear surfaces.

Whenever I rebuild a gearbox or transmission and it it likely that it's going to sit around for some time before he vehicle is back together and on the road, I use Chainsaw Bar Oil as an assembly lube. It too is sticky and will cling to gears, shafts and bearings for long periods, so that any movement until actual filling with gear oil will have all surfaces protected. The coating also prevents rust scale forming on parts within the gearbox that are not sitting in oil. I have seen differentials ruined by the top half of the crown wheel getting a rust coating from sitting for long periods outside exposed to moist air. If you plan to do this, drain the diff oil, part fill with Bar Oil and rotate all moving parts to ensure they get a coating. There is no need to completely remove or flush out the Bar Oil when deciding to put the gearbox/diff back into service. Just a quick, basic drain and refill with fresh gear oil.

[Corey Myronuk]

i agree Tony.the gooey 600W is most likley the reason the gears and bearings in my CMP look brand spanking new and most of the 50's dodge 4.89 rear end chunks ive taken out of trucks that have sat a number of years all had crusty ring gear at the least.

[Corey Myronuk]

Well i picked up my pail of meropa 680 a few days ago..$79.50 plus tax for 20L..