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  #1  
Old 08-11-12, 04:53
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Casey B Casey B is offline
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Well got the rear seal out and compared it to the original...they look good. The onlt difference is that the rear pinion seal i had in there was a cone shape. Now i know this shouldn't really matter but the new one is not and the new seal will run on a previously unused part of the shaft. We are talking rear pinoin diff here.

So with the discolouration on the unused portion there are no grooves...can this be cleaned up with super fine steel wool to polish the surfice back to smooth clean?

Also since the groove that was in the rear output shaft wasn't deep at all and there were no burs the directions said to put a small amount of a non hardening compound to hold the speed sleeve in place. I am going to say that the RTV will work for this and let it cure before installation?

Do you think it wise to remove the ridge that is provided to press the sleeve on? It is already cut for this purpose but it did say it is not essential to remove if it is not in the way... I am thinking take it off once cured and in place..the less stuff that can come off there the better.

Otherwise will have it back on the road Monday hangover or not.
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Old 08-11-12, 06:24
rob love rob love is offline
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I would polish it with some extra fine emery cloth and just run the seal without a speedi sleeve. Saves you $40.

In the old days we would use crocus cloth, but I am not sure they make that anymore. But if you mount the yoke in a vise, and work thin strips of fine emery like a shoe shine cloth, the shine should come back.
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Old 08-11-12, 19:29
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Roger that Rob!
I like the part about saving the cash as well.

Thanks again get it done tonight after work.

What are you doing for the 11 Rob?
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Old 10-11-12, 17:29
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BTW Rob do you happen to know the torque of the bolts for the rear of the transfer case that houses the seal and the gear drive for the speedo?
i am still searching for manuals for this...? thanks! Casey
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Old 10-11-12, 20:47
rob love rob love is offline
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30 pounds. Here is a link to repair/rebuild of the case. Since yours is not being rebuilt, and likely has reasonable wear, do not bother with the shim adjustments.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...uild_guide.htm
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Old 19-11-12, 05:28
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Well finally had some time to crawl under and put the rear back on the transfer case. and yes a bolt got easy to turn when torquing,"Why do we keep turning knowing it's gonna break" It did so there was enough to grab it with the Vise grip and get it out then start over with new bolts. I didn't think 30 pounds was that much but it did snap so was weak anyway. Now that the skid plate is off I may as well move to the fron end and do that pinion and front output for the transfer case as well.
If you read this Rob are the seals the same for the front Diff as it was for the rear... a 5778? and the front output the same seal as the rear output?
I hope to be able to re assmeble it sooner than later...
Thanks for the good advice Casey
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Old 19-11-12, 05:57
rob love rob love is offline
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You can get away with about 24 pounds torque, just to be safe. A lot of the problem could be the cheap torque wrenches we buy.....many are not properly calibrated, and if they were when new, that calibration can wander over the years.

Front pinion seal is the same as the back pinion seal, and the transfer case front output is also the same as the transfer case back one.
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