2012 at the Hammond Barn

[Bob Carriere]

..... what did you do to your truck......give it Viagra ?

Alex yours is definitely longer than mine.... you should be proud....

Sorry got excited...... I measured the cab 11 and cab 12 and the later model is at least 1 1/2 inch longer..... that would solve my problem but implies taking the rad to a proper shop to have it welded...... unless... if it is steel I could cut the pipe and insert and extension piece and mig weld the darn thing or maybe even braze with the gas torches......

something else to think about...... stay tune for developments...!

Thanks for the picture Alex.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

Your pictures may help me with more than just the filler pipe.

for example the nose piece is held in place by 2 botls on each side....seems the first bolt hole is not used.... and I have seen the same on other cab 11 pictures.....

Can you tell me how much space/clearance you have between the top of the radiator and the top tank of your radiator....?

Will try to take pics of mine from the same angle as you did to compare.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

Sorry for the delay; somehow I missed your post. Attached are some pics that will hopefully help you.
Measurement from top of radiator to the sheet metal is about an inch....measured from the rear of the radiator straight up to the sheet metal.

As you say "size does matter" so I have included another shot of my filler neck to show it's size.

Alex

[Alex van de Wetering]

or example the nose piece is held in place by 2 botls on each side....seems the first bolt hole is not used.... and I have seen the same on other cab 11 pictures.....

Interesting subject.....yes, mine came from LWDparts with only two bolts on each side. Wartime thing????I guess it must have been easier for maintenance, as the forward-most hole is almost unaccessable as it's behind the thick rad support. No caged nuts here, as far as I know....only square nuts. What about Fords?

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

Thanks for the photos Alex.

It seems that all my photos of various cab 11 ONLY shows the last two bolt holes being used. I agree that trying to install the front one would be almost impossible.... and the cast iton support does NOT have caged nuts.

NOt sure how different the Ford might be... but then Ford had the external radiator cap.....

Will need to review my set of factory pictures to see if the elusive 3rd bolt was ever used.

Did some more sheet metal work on the weekend. Not as much as I had planned because the huge tropical storm that was suppose to soak Ottawa came and went as a big fart..... lots of wind.... so we opted for felling trees that had been damaged in early September.... thereby increasing my stash of firewood and catching up on grounds work before Winter arrives.

It seems I have 2 options.

My front cast steel mount have two sets of holes.... the original which I am using now.... and a second set probably drilled by the previous owner to gain the extra clearance needed to fit the nose.

Using the original holes we fitted the engine cover, hood, bonnet... there is no real name to describe the rectangular cover. Well it fits nicely..... if I use the extra holes that have been drilled I am about 1/4 inch short but gain rad clearance and would still be acceptable.

I am going to try tilting my radiator backwards to the cab to possibly gain that precious 1/4 inch so I can use the "real" bolt holes..... then the est of the sheet metal should fit better...... action word here is "should"....

I have been comparing parts with the cab 12 I have...... cast parts are interchangeable but holes are different ...some tapered for flat screws and at a slightly difference location to allow clearnace for the Alligator nose.... rather confusing.


Stay tuned....

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Alex

I verified some factgory pictures of early complete and clean cab 11 and 12


All the cab 11 Ford and Chev DO HAVE the 3 bolts installed......

...but remember.... at the factory the whole nose assembly was put together on a separate jig then lowered on the frame which already had the motor and the radiator installed...... so at the factory the front most of the 3 bolts was installed.

I am sure that whenit was serviced in field unit that front bolt disappear as it would be almost impossible to re install wthout caged nuts.

On the cab 12 Chev pictures the rear 2 bolts are replaced by large 5/16 recessed screws instead of bolts AND the front hole is left empty.....

May not be gospel but that is what I observed.

Bob C.

[Alex van de Wetering]

Hi Bob,

I came to the same conclusion after viewing the Servicepub Factory photos CD....factory did fit all bolts. In the field however it seems that sometimes those last two bolts were tossed in the bin after work on the rad and/or engine.
One of factory pics I found fascinating is that of a cab11 that was crated for assembly elsewhere.....the panel work around the radiator and the curved panels that attach to the arch bars are assembled as one piece.
I'd love to hear what others think about the filler necks.....did early Cab11's indeed have a short filler neck which was tilted backwards and did this give so much trouble when accessing the filler cab, that later on in production they fitted longer filler necks?

As for your cab assembly.....is it possible to fit the whole lot in it's original holes and just remove that panel on top of the rad, when you need to access the filler cap??? hmm...I thought this would just involve removing 4 (or 6) bolts, but I now realise you also have to remove some bolts of the grille.....

Alex

[Grant Bowker]

Interesting idea. One supplier's technical manual fo plastic pipe can be found at:
http://ipex.ceros.com/municipal/pressurepiping/page/1
So far, all of the sizes for 24" nominal pipe seem just a bit off what we need. From experience, these pipes can usually be worked with tools that would work for woodworking. (although some construction gangs use abrasive cutoff wheels intended for pavement cutting - this stinks, basically melts/burns the plastic)

[Bob Carriere]

Steam bending is the repro of choice. However not an easy task considering the thickness of the board to be bent.

Having done basketry with Joyce for 10 years while in Toronto and having bent black ash...... to be pronouced carefully and spelled accurately.... it is easy and difficult. I have done countless backet rims using 3/4 x 1 in. wood bent to 180 degrees...... some to 360 for basket rims.

Ideally you would need to cut a Black ash and work it while still green..... it is very pliable when steamed.

You would need to have a log about 8 feet long and 12 inches in diameter..... green it is a two strong man job to carry...... and usually grows well in poorly drained soil..... hint near a swamp !!!

It needs to be quarter sawn and you would use the 6 inch width from the outside to the heart as one piece. Why do you think I have that large bandsaw in the barn...? If you decided to pound your ash with a 2 pound hammer you would have splints to weave baskets.... which explains the Little Giant blacksmith mechanical hammer in the other corner of the barn.

Steam box is just a long box hinged at one end usually made from cedar. Can't use metal as it will react with the wood and make dark stains but plastic is good.

For the Oshawa folks...... near the Pickering Museum was the last operating apple basket factory that ran well into the mid 1950.... using black ash and hydraulic and screw presses. Joyce was trained by one of the Mic Ma' elders in Cap Breton island.....Irene Johnson....full blood blond air blue eyed lady....... !!!!

Board has to be steamed at least an hours maybe more if dried.... I used two flea market hot water kitchen steam kettles.

Wood that has dried can be soaked in water and a small quantity of Bounce fabric softerner for a few days before steaming..... using a plastic sewer pipe cut as a trough works nicely.

You would need a sturdy wooden mold or pattern to bend it around to the desired shape.

To properly guide the hot wood around the form ....one should use a strip / piece of sheet metal with some fasteners at the end so they can be pulled with great force with turn buckles. Industrial installations use hydraulic devices.

Bending a board of black ash one inch thick 360 degrees as to be done fast in one swoop and would require some muscle.... another option would be to wrap many layers of 1/4 thick wood and glue once dried.

Do-able..... hard to justify the set up just for one.

Once dried it will retain its shape.

By far easier to build up the circle in segments of the same wood..... white ash or black ash or even oak.... sandwich the segments using modern Gorilla or crazy glue ( works on green wood) used by wood workers...... cut ID and OD to size..... once fully dimensioned seal with POR paint including inside the bolt holes........ voila.

For a fine finish we could mount it outboard on my wood late and turn it perfectly round.

Will supply a per unit quote upon request..... hihihi always wanted to start a second career when I retire next year.

Boobee.

[Bob Carriere]

The scourge of our generation....

Grant may be on to something..... one inch thick plastic board slowly heated and bent to shape....... fused/glued open ends together..... no warpage due to water. Easy to drill and cut to size......

So what is the price of a one inch thick 6 inches wide board worth...?

That is what I call leaving behind 1812 and catching up to 2012.

[RHClarke]

Saturday felt like the coldest day of the year. It was about -10oC with a good stiff wind blowing. Hammond got a light dusting of snow the night before that also served notice that winter is coming. So, the first order of business was to feed Lucifer, which made working in the barn much more tolerable.

Shortly after things warmed up in the barn, Grant and Bob made their apparances. The order of business for today included a local recovery, clear out and clean up the rear of the barn, and then on to some small projects.

We three loaded up Bob's Ford for a quick cross-country trek to the wilds of Kars, Ontario, where a nice 261 engine awaited its new home. The engine was stored at Greg Wright's place and Greg lent a hand for the loading - thanks to him, we were able to refill the hydraulic cylinder resevior of the engine lift that had somehow gone dry. Bringing along the mobile engine lift was a very good idea as it made loading the engine a breeze. After a few adjustments, the engine was safely tied down and we said good bye to Greg, and hit the road again.

After a quick stop in Manotic at Tim Horton's, we headed back to Hammond along the rural routes to see what was hidden in the back yards now that the leaves were down. There were a few prospective locations to be checked out later, but nothing screamed CMP.

Back at the barn, we off loaded the engine, winterized it and stored it for future use. Then we sorted out the rear of the barn, which had become somewhat crowded. We usually use the back of the barn during the cold months given its proximity to Lucifer and given that either the tractor or one of our trucks occupy the front end of the barn.

Bob tended to a bunch of little tasks such as sorting sockets, looking for items and general organization. Grant got busy putting together his round hatch inside retaining ring. He fashioned the ring from four pieces of metal that he cut with a jigsaw. These four pieces were welded together and drilled. The end product looks the part and will definitely do the job.

I played with the sandblaster. The small doors from the Pilot model HUP doghouse needed to be cleaned of years of paint, tar and asbestos. Once the hazardous crap was removed, into the cabinet it went. After blasting, I got the metal working hammers and dollies out to straighten the edges and to take out the warpage.

It was a good but busy day at the Hammond barn. Thanks to Bob for the transport and Grant for the labour in recovering the engine. I am sure that more "treasures" await us in the near future.

Photos:

1 - The load out
2 - Picking up the engine at Greg Wright's place
3 - Snugly settled in the back of the Ford
4 - Grant's soon to be round hatch retaining ring
5 - Nearly done retaining ring

[RHClarke]

Christmas is quickly approaching, so on behalf of the members of the Hammond Barn and the Ottawa Rotters, we wish you and yours the best of the season, Merry Christmas and best wishes for a happy New Year!