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  #1  
Old 24-10-12, 03:58
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Tilted somehow....

Hi Alex

Part of my problem is that I have 4 other cab 12 to check, look at, crawl all over but ONLY the one cab 11.

The nose assembly of the cab 11 and cab 12 is somewhat different..... and my truck had been re-engined with a GMC 228 with all the necessary tweaking modification required. so I am robbing off the cab 12s for parts and idea. some of the fasterners were bolts on the cab 11 but on the cab 12 they are tapered/recessed bolt heads like wood screws.

I suspect that my rad is tilted slightly too far forward...... but can only move back so far before I hit the risk hitting the fan.

Grant....... we will need to remove the axtra rubber spacer on the wish bone rad support..... that will move us 3/16 lower.

From the old pictures I haev taken fo the truck before disassembly both the rain gutter and the rad cap was very close.....

One of the possibilities is that when the rad was "recored" the new core might have been a fraction of an inch taller..... or the rad sits taller in the rad support soldered on the new rad..... a fraction here a fraction there and you suddenly have parts rubbing....

Alex..... if I can't have a look at a cab 11 nose locally I may call on you for some close up pictures.

Meanwhile look at the enclosed old pictures to see how tight clearance where originally.

Bob

PS (Post Scrotum) space is very tight at the filler cap...so much that the tabs on the cap would prevent the rad cap from turning properly..... and notice how the filler neck is actually soldered at a slight angle.
On the cab 12 the filler pipe of the rad is about 1 1/4 inch longer providing additional clearance.
I have a spare cab 11 rad and the same tilted rad pipe is installed. I may try fitting the old original spare cab 11 rad to see if size "really matters".....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IM001417rotres.jpg (116.7 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg IM001418res.jpg (69.9 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg IM001419res.jpg (72.4 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg IM001748resizeda.jpg (58.8 KB, 39 views)
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
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Canada
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  #2  
Old 24-10-12, 11:05
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Default

Bob,

I am at work so I can't check at the moment, but I think the filler neck on my (cab11) C8 is longer than the one on your cab11 rad(s). I have no idea if my rad is the original one or if it has been replaced with one from a cab 12....nor do I remember if the filler neck is tilted. I will try to have a look tomorrow morning.......tonight is a no-go, as we have already moved to those days of the year that it is dark when you get home from work

Almost sounds like the problem with the filler neck and cap was a known early cab 11 problem, which was solved during production with a longer filler neck???? Than again, it could also be a result of the mods on your truck by the previous owner as you described.

Alex
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  #3  
Old 24-10-12, 23:07
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Default

Bob,

I don't now if these pics help you, but I took these of my C8 a few weeks ago. Filler neck on mine is definately longer.

Alex
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File Type: jpg Rad1.jpg (95.8 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Rad2.jpg (98.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Rad3.jpg (122.0 KB, 20 views)
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  #4  
Old 25-10-12, 02:40
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Sexual arousal.....

..... what did you do to your truck......give it Viagra ?

Alex yours is definitely longer than mine.... you should be proud....

Sorry got excited...... I measured the cab 11 and cab 12 and the later model is at least 1 1/2 inch longer..... that would solve my problem but implies taking the rad to a proper shop to have it welded...... unless... if it is steel I could cut the pipe and insert and extension piece and mig weld the darn thing or maybe even braze with the gas torches......

something else to think about...... stay tune for developments...!

Thanks for the picture Alex.

Bob
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  #5  
Old 25-10-12, 02:46
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default One more question....

Your pictures may help me with more than just the filler pipe.

for example the nose piece is held in place by 2 botls on each side....seems the first bolt hole is not used.... and I have seen the same on other cab 11 pictures.....

Can you tell me how much space/clearance you have between the top of the radiator and the top tank of your radiator....?

Will try to take pics of mine from the same angle as you did to compare.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob
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  #6  
Old 30-10-12, 11:50
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Bob,

Sorry for the delay; somehow I missed your post. Attached are some pics that will hopefully help you.
Measurement from top of radiator to the sheet metal is about an inch....measured from the rear of the radiator straight up to the sheet metal.

As you say "size does matter" so I have included another shot of my filler neck to show it's size.

Alex
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File Type: jpg Sizedoesmatter1.jpg (106.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Sizedoesmatter2.jpg (81.0 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg Sizedoesmatter3.jpg (90.6 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Sizedoesmatter4.jpg (89.8 KB, 20 views)
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  #7  
Old 30-10-12, 11:53
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Quote:
or example the nose piece is held in place by 2 botls on each side....seems the first bolt hole is not used.... and I have seen the same on other cab 11 pictures.....
Interesting subject.....yes, mine came from LWDparts with only two bolts on each side. Wartime thing????I guess it must have been easier for maintenance, as the forward-most hole is almost unaccessable as it's behind the thick rad support. No caged nuts here, as far as I know....only square nuts. What about Fords?

Alex
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  #8  
Old 20-11-12, 15:49
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default Plastic pipe for hip ring spacer

Interesting idea. One supplier's technical manual fo plastic pipe can be found at:
http://ipex.ceros.com/municipal/pressurepiping/page/1
So far, all of the sizes for 24" nominal pipe seem just a bit off what we need. From experience, these pipes can usually be worked with tools that would work for woodworking. (although some construction gangs use abrasive cutoff wheels intended for pavement cutting - this stinks, basically melts/burns the plastic)
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  #9  
Old 21-11-12, 02:41
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Steam bending......

Steam bending is the repro of choice. However not an easy task considering the thickness of the board to be bent.

Having done basketry with Joyce for 10 years while in Toronto and having bent black ash...... to be pronouced carefully and spelled accurately.... it is easy and difficult. I have done countless backet rims using 3/4 x 1 in. wood bent to 180 degrees...... some to 360 for basket rims.

Ideally you would need to cut a Black ash and work it while still green..... it is very pliable when steamed.

You would need to have a log about 8 feet long and 12 inches in diameter..... green it is a two strong man job to carry...... and usually grows well in poorly drained soil..... hint near a swamp !!!

It needs to be quarter sawn and you would use the 6 inch width from the outside to the heart as one piece. Why do you think I have that large bandsaw in the barn...? If you decided to pound your ash with a 2 pound hammer you would have splints to weave baskets.... which explains the Little Giant blacksmith mechanical hammer in the other corner of the barn.

Steam box is just a long box hinged at one end usually made from cedar. Can't use metal as it will react with the wood and make dark stains but plastic is good.

For the Oshawa folks...... near the Pickering Museum was the last operating apple basket factory that ran well into the mid 1950.... using black ash and hydraulic and screw presses. Joyce was trained by one of the Mic Ma' elders in Cap Breton island.....Irene Johnson....full blood blond air blue eyed lady....... !!!!

Board has to be steamed at least an hours maybe more if dried.... I used two flea market hot water kitchen steam kettles.

Wood that has dried can be soaked in water and a small quantity of Bounce fabric softerner for a few days before steaming..... using a plastic sewer pipe cut as a trough works nicely.

You would need a sturdy wooden mold or pattern to bend it around to the desired shape.

To properly guide the hot wood around the form ....one should use a strip / piece of sheet metal with some fasteners at the end so they can be pulled with great force with turn buckles. Industrial installations use hydraulic devices.

Bending a board of black ash one inch thick 360 degrees as to be done fast in one swoop and would require some muscle.... another option would be to wrap many layers of 1/4 thick wood and glue once dried.

Do-able..... hard to justify the set up just for one.

Once dried it will retain its shape.

By far easier to build up the circle in segments of the same wood..... white ash or black ash or even oak.... sandwich the segments using modern Gorilla or crazy glue ( works on green wood) used by wood workers...... cut ID and OD to size..... once fully dimensioned seal with POR paint including inside the bolt holes........ voila.

For a fine finish we could mount it outboard on my wood late and turn it perfectly round.

Will supply a per unit quote upon request..... hihihi always wanted to start a second career when I retire next year.

Boobee.
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C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 21-11-12 at 02:48.
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