pn#/source needed: temp sensor

[patallen]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Hi Pat

So you have a Ford cab/instrument panel and a Chevy 6 engine...... and you are looking for a part number for a sender that will fit a Chev block and allow a Ford instrument to be compatible........

Sounds like hooking up a Mac computer to a MicroSoft XP software.....

The original sender on the Chev was a mechanical bulb into the block connected to the instrument panel..... all in one piece.

On the Ford block I am not sure if it was electrical or mechanical.

You may be lucky by pure coincidence to find compatible parts but you might be better buying a lotery tickets....better odds.

If you are concerned with getting an accurate reading to prevent overheating the block I would suggest an after market generic gauge/sender unit available at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto...... not original but they do work .........

Bob

lol...Bob !! i knew i would get that sort of reply....
i am electronic engineer for the automotive market...believe me i will make it fit, its just a matter of thread/fittings onto the block. i dont care what engine i have for now.
i just need the one that fits electricaly on the guage itself of the ford cab/metter assembly and i will be happy.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

For those of us who have a Chevy with the mechanical type temperature gauge, recently I came across a little item that says that there is a GMC electric gauge that looks the same as the Chevy fits the Chevy instrument cluster housing and uses a common electric sending unit for mounting in the head.

I'm trying to track down all the parts and model years so that we can have an alternative to the increasingly hard to find mechanical ones, an NOS one just sold on e-bay for $78.03 US.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Pat

I am currently running a Princess Auto special on my Chev..... the nice part about the Princess guage is that for $12 is comes with about 4 or 5 different brass fittings of which one will work.

When I make the change to the original cluster I will go back to the original CMP parts.

One strange thing we have observed here at the barn is that the angle of the original CMP bulb will not fit any of the modern brass fitting now available. The result is a bad coolant leak.

Saving that peculiar 4 sided steel fitting from the original 216 block is critical.

Hoping Phil can source those GMC parts as it would make our restoration so easier .... no one wants to drive a $3000 rebuilt engine without a good dependable temp. gauge.

Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

When I reassembled the 216 for the HUP with the replacement head the new head did not have the large diameter tap for the steam relief valve and the temperature sensor, so I ran into the problem you described of getting a leak free connection. I did find a solution for this problem with modern brass fittings, only problem is I can't find my notes or pictures of the parts. So next time I have the engine cover off the HUP I'll take a couple of pictures of the fittings and then I think I can match them to Weatherhead parts numbers. But it solved the problem of the CMP sender not fitting the new new brass adapters.

I need one of those step down adapters you described getting with the gauge the fitting alone was $14 while the gauge with fittings was $15 so I have an extra, cheep gauge on the shelf.

Will try and figure out the parts numbers for the 194?s GMC that matches and post it when I do.

Cheers Phil

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

It seems there are a lot of problems with these. My sending unit stopped working and because the system is 12V I thought I'd have no problem using one from a post war GMC engine. I got one that plugged right into the hole in the block and I wired it to the gauge. Nothing. It turns out the model I used was for the dash lamp warning system and not a gauge. It was either off or, when it hit 165 degrees, on. I'm still looking for one exactly the same but that works with a gauge.

[patallen]

since the actual temp sender works, i will make an electronic circuit to invert the signal and calibrate it.
will be easier for me reather than searching forever for the "proper" sender.
will be cheaper too since i have soo many electronic parts already.

thanks for all the reply guys, really appreciated !