M38A1 front alignment?

[rob love]

Diffs, steering box, transmission and transfer case all use 80W90.

[Casey B]

I noticed the other day while driving and looking at the wheel, the front left wheel has a wobble as it is warped or has a slight buckle. This can't be helping either. I will move that to the spare wheel. Tire Tubes easy to come by or is there a place that is better priced than the Jeep fellows that supply the military stuff? I have 5 newer tires that I can replace the original 1966/67 tires with now.

[Casey B]

Well I got the rear pinion out and the rear of the transfer case drive.
I had to remove the speedo gear assmebly cus there was no way that seal was coming out! I split it 3 places and still nothing so i really didn't want to damage the splines...so off it came. I'll work on the seal on the bench.

The shaft surface has a deffinet grove in it from sitting too long so a speedy sleeve will work.

The rear end is another subject.
I have not seen a seal this small before nor have I ever seen it where the seal is almost on the edge of the pinion shaft...?photos below.

Am I correct in saying that the seal in the diff is only about as round as a 50 cent piece? Red arrow A or the whole large cone shaped end Green arrow B?

I really don't want to to start trying to pull anything out till I know what to expect.

The photo after the one with the arrows is the pinion shaft.

The pinion shaft is a little worn but only the end as it looks like it does not go in that deep...? The cone that is with the shaft was welded at one place and a crude weld at that...?
Was it supposed to be welded to the shaft? And no washer behind the nut either!
Only the rear transfer shaft had a washer.

The next is the obvious seal slaughter!

The last is the rear transfer shaft with the park brake assembly attached. It is the real leaker and will need a sleeve.

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Casey B

The last is the rear transfer shaft with the park brake assembly attached. It is the real leaker and will need a sleeve.

When putting on speedy sleeves, one set of instructions I received with a sleeve suggested mixing up some epoxy, filling the groove with it and pressing on the sleeve (before the epoxy set). The aim being to provide backing for the sleeve over the groove. I normally (gently) file down any burrs or ridges beside the groove to make for a smoother sleeve install. Just enough to remove the ridge, if I slip and mark the shaft it makes more work cleaning up my shoddy workmanship.

[rob love]

The pinion seal is the whole thing indicated by the green. It is a fairly standard seal used on the smaller Dana differentials, up to the 44 series. Ask for a National 5778 or equivalent.

The roughly welded cone you are talking about is likely the dirt deflector. It's purpose is to prevent sand and dirt from being attracted to the moist seal surface, which would cause rapid wear. They were welded a stamped steel deflector to a cast yoke.....it wasn't always pretty. Sometimes they were simply pressed on, and could work loose. You would then hear a ringing sound when you stop as the slinger would continue to spin on the yoke.

[Casey B]

Thanks Guys. Rob as always you know your stuff.
I will get to work on it straight away. Looks like it is welded in with rust so I'll take it easy while pulling and chiseling it out.
I'll fit the sleeve first then take the burs down..I see how that will make a better fit Grant!

Will ask this do any of you feel the diff pinion shaft shaft in the second picture needs a sleeve?
I know the one for the transfer does.


Thank you fellows Casey

[rob love]

You can get away with that diff flange. We would normally just polish the surface with some extra fine crocus cloth, and if the groove was still there, install the seal to a different depth than before.