Iltis rear quarter panel restoration question

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Stuart Fedak

Alex,
Thanks for the information on aluminium welding. That is on my to-do-list. I do have a Millermatic welder that can be set up for aluminium, but I just have not had the time to do that. I did two evenings of aluminium welding as part of my 10 week MIG welding course at Algonquin College. All I know is you really need to clean the aluminium well, and use lots of wire.....

The Bombardier Iltis is all mild steel. I have been able to do butt welding with the mild steel, now I just want to protect the back surface, and to cover the overlaping joint areas that are spot welded. I was thinking of using that black automotive adhesive that they use for sealing up in trunks and other body parts. It seems to remain somewhat flexible and can be painted over.

Any other thoughts of suitable materials?

Stu,,..
TIG welding is not MIG welding..and is used for Aluminum..stainless steel ..mild steel..and even titanium..

I'll start again..

*snip*

Please re read what I have posted ..you can weld mild steel and make it as clean a joint as a licked lip..
Good luck.
Go to a good machine shop and ask to see some one TIG welding..you will be impressed


WE used to play around welding mild steel shim stock..butt welds..takes some practice but really nice when you get on it.
Good luck
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TIQY...feature=fvwrel

[Robin Craig]

As a welder and fabricator by trade I would stand by the use of MIG for what Stuart has done. It is ideal for the enthusiast as Stuart has proven.

Alex, your barking up the wrong tree.

MIG enables smaller welds and less heat in the joints, multiple tack welds is essentially what you do or if you drill one piece and lay it on top the other piece and do a weld through the hole and seal it you are mimicing a spot weld in effect, although a spot weld is done by a pair of copper tongs clamping the two materials and passing a current through them and the work pieces.

TIG welding is far hotter and not worth the enthusiast playing with on jobs like this. It puts a ton of distortion into the panels.

Heliarc is a term from the stone ages and those in the trade call it TIG nowadays.

R

[Bob Carriere]

Stuart

Look up Eastwood supplier for possible coating.....

.....or visit a professional body paint shop or a supplier...... ask them how they would do it ......... if you make your enquiry short and sweet some of them are very helpful.

Some of the polyurethane coatings will stick to anythng and act as a binder coat for the cover up OD you would use........

I like your approach to do it right....even if it may not be readily visible when standing next to it.

Bob

[Casey B]

Aluminum works well for the filling of holes as a backing plate...is lighter and waaaay cheaper than brass or copper but does heat up quickly so a pail of water handy helps. I have done similar to the holes the Army filled with Bondo. A few patches later and other than a part of the original CFR number missing you can't tell. Looks good Good luck with the restoration.