Outer Wheel Bearings

[Private_collector]

I agree with Terry!!!

I have done this on my CMP rear end, and it works VERY well.

[rob love]

I have heard of (and used) this method for the outer races, but in the case of the cone, won't it make it even tighter?

[T Creighton]

Hi Rob, You are certainly right about that.
I understood Garry was trying to get the cup out of the hub. For the cone I grind a big flat on it (keeping well clear of the axle surface) with the angle grinder. One hit with a cold chisel should loosen it.
Cheers Terry

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey Terry and Rob

Sorry if I caused any confusion but I took a picture of the part I am talking about. If the welding idea is still plausible I will try that out very soon.

Also I took my tranny to a "Professional" who really hosed me and made me miss the AC12 Convoy he also had my transfercase but was unable to get one gear of so he could not remove the cover. Is there a special puller to get this part off?

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by gary_bath_jr

Hey Terry and Rob
Also I took my tranny to a "Professional" who really hosed me and made me miss the AC12 Convoy he also had my transfercase but was unable to get one gear of so he could not remove the cover. Is there a special puller to get this part off?

Hi Garry, Looking at fig. 24 Page N9 in the MB F1 manual that gear (or clutch dog) does not have to be removed to take off the cover. Figs 29 and 30 show the dog being removed from the shaft.
Glad you had good luck getting the hub bearings out.
Regards, Terry

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey Terry

I kind of thought that it did not have to come off, the guy that was looking at it claimed to have spent several hours trying to get it and the cover off and researching how to get it off but was unable to. I am going to try to remove it myself (the cover) and will order new seals at that point, I do have another t-case here from my C-60 but it has a large hole in it.

Does anyone know if it is possible to order a replacement part for the transmission or if anyone has a spare or 2 as both of mine appear to have been run with loose bolts in the driveshaft and broke the peice in the photo's below on both trucks.

Gary

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gary

This damage is as you probably guessed caused by the universal joint bolts getting loose hitting the heads of the transmission bolts. Yours is the worst busted up one I've seen. Interestingly yours appears to be cast iron while all the ones on my truck are pot metal.


Web Rear Bearing and Seal Retainer.JPG


From the Chevy parts book it was used over wide period 38-4? with the 4 speed transmission with open drive shaft. All of the non-CMP ones I have seen have the speedometer drive in them. But that doesn't cause a problem you will just need to plug the speedo drive and bearing holes. In fact the transmission in my C60L which is a `41 had the complete speedometer drive assembly in the retainer.

If you can not find one on a junk transmission. You might try Obsolete Chevrolet Parts http://www.obschevy.com/ I've had good luck find parts through them, I check on line to see if they had it but didn't see it listed, but they have had other stuff I've needed that was not listed or once I described it they had another part that would fit or interchange. May take sending them a picture of your part.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gary

I hear what the guys are saying about heating etc. But lets get back to the three holes and how the manual says to tap out the bearing. Here is the trick I have used with success.

1. Take a punch that will slip down through the three holes easily. Not a tight fit just in case the head mushrooms you want to be able to pull it out. Make a punch head for your air chisel, find a piece of tubing to hold your punch square on the punch head of the air chisel.

2. Vibrate the bearing using punch and the air chisel, keep working around the three holes. Don't really lean on it you just want to vibrate it at first. After you have vibrated each point a couple of times then you can increase the pressure.

Keep an eye on how far your punch is going it so that you don't end up cocking the bearing race.

This approach has worked every time for me.


Heating the bearing race may actually be counter productive because it will make the race expand hard against the hub. Though heating and letting it cool may help. Think this is what makes the welding bead trick work. Or if you can heat the whole assembly and then cool just the bearing race that may let you tap it out.

Let us know what works.

Cheers Phil

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey Phil

That worked!! I got the broken peice out, the only problem I had was one of the screws will not come out so I had to work around that. I sprayed it several times with Liquid Wrench and will try to get it out later.

Now that I have the old ones out do I need to press the new ones in or will they go in when I tighten the wheel nut?

Thank You!!
Gary

[rob love]

Pack the new bearing with grease first, then use the bearing spacer to knock the bearing into place. Note that there are likely shims on the end of the bearing spacer....you may have to adjust the shims for the new bearing although in reality, bearings are usually a very tight spec, and there is not a lot of variation in tolerance between them. Refer to the manual on how to adjust the bearing with the shims and a dial gauge.

Some early vehicles did not use the spacer, but rather the nut on the end of the axle shaft did the adjusting. I ran into one of these a short time ago when I was salvaging parts for another truck at the local museum.

[Phil Waterman]

I'd follow the manual on how to instal and set up the shims if needed. Get the one stuck screw out before you go forward because if you have pull the bearing again you don't want to get it wedged.

Now that you have the bearing out can you take another picture of the hub and the old bearing so we can better understand what happened.

The outer bearing on all of my Chevs are tapered roller which means that all you are installing is the race, assume that is the same on yours.

When possible I use a bearing press to push bearings in or on, being very sure that it goes in straight. If I have to tap it in again I try and use a round flat pushing tool. One of my CCKW friends always saves the race of the bearing he is replacing he chucks this up in the lath and with a grinder takes just enough off the diameter so that it is a drop fit into the housing. He uses that as his push tool to put the new bearing in. Neat trick that I have now adopted, got a drawer of old bearing races.

One last point try to avoid, for obviously reasons, tapping or driving steel on steel with a hammer, I use wood blocks like oak or some other hardwood to keep from chipping your new part or the machined surfaces around it.

Glad the air chisel drift idea work for you.

Cheers Phil