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Old 19-08-12, 07:57
Keith Webb's Avatar
Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Bleeding

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I use an air bleeder ball, so air bubbles are not usually a problem. You do tend to go through a lot of fluid with them, mind you.
Can you please elaborate, Rob?

Bleeding brakes can be a fairly frustrating and messy process, not the least because of the awkward location of the master cylinder filler (in a Ford).
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Old 19-08-12, 09:06
Bob McNeill Bob McNeill is offline
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Default brake bleed

Used to have problems with BMC,s mainly Mini,s, short of standing them on their noses [ too many dips and high points ] Now I simply fit clear plastic hose from fartherest bleeder to master cylinder, open bleeder topup m/c then pump the crap out of them until ALL air is removed. go to next wheel and so on. NO MESS, only extra fluid required is whats in the hose. CAUTION make sure that fluid does not splash out from bleed hole inside M/c.
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Old 19-08-12, 22:20
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Just to be sure are you saying you create a loop with the hose from the bleeder back to the reservoir in the MC and then as the air is displaced by fresh fliud being pumed in the remaing fluid from the hose goes back into the reservoir?

I used a jar and a hose and do each wheel starting with the farthest and work forward each time letting the air out and the hose stays under the level of the fluid in the jar/can so as to not draw air back into the cylinder if I do not close it off right away or on the downstroke.
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Old 20-08-12, 04:45
Bob McNeill Bob McNeill is offline
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Default bleeding

Correct, once the loop is complete, any air is visible, it,s a one person operation, your not getting up and down, filling the M/c every three pumps, knocking over the bottle, just remember to block the end of the hose when changing from wheel to wheel. good luck.
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Old 21-08-12, 07:18
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I see how it will work and not just on the military vehicles. The hose becomes a reservoir as well as a transfer tube...thanks! I'll give it a try next bleed.
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Old 21-08-12, 15:52
rob love rob love is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
Can you please elaborate, Rob?

Bleeding brakes can be a fairly frustrating and messy process, not the least because of the awkward location of the master cylinder filler (in a Ford).
It is a bit old school these days, but you need to acquire a brake bleeder ball. I have shown a photo grabbed off ebay . Put in the search term "brake bleeder".

Basically, the bottom half is air, then a rubber diaphragm, and the top half is brake fluid. You open the air valve on the bottom, open the filler cap, and fill the ball with fluid. Close the cap, then add air pressure (up to about 30 PSI) to the bottom. You have to open the bleeder valve on top to remove any minor bit of air from the ball. There would be a length of hose running from the top of the ball to an adapter cap for your master cylinder. Usually a spare master cylinder cap can be converted to fill this purpose, or you can buy them. The cap just needs and airline nipple that will match the end of the hose.

Once all this is connected, you turn on the brake fluid, then you can go bleed each wheel station one by one, usually starting at the furthest.

Advantages of the bleeder ball are that it provides constant pressure so it forces out any air at troublesome high spots. It also replaces all the old fluid with fresh fluid, which is actually recommended every couple years in any brake system using DOT3 or 4. Best of all, it is all done with just one person.


Once done, you should drain the air pressure out of the bottom half of the ball, so the diaphragm does not get stressed.

One problem that can occur with a bleeder ball is that the diaphragm can get torn, and the air will all leak up to the top. If you buy an older model, the diaphragm may no longer be available, and you will have to scrap the ball. So it is best to buy a current model. I have had mine for at least 17 years, and have had no problems to date.

I have collected various caps to use on different cylinder. When it comes to the round ones, there are about 4 basic sizes which will let you do about 95% of North American style vehicles. There are also adapters available for the small plastic reservoirs used on modern vehicles, as well as the tin lids used on the 70s era stuff. Snap-on is a good source for some of the more odd adapters.
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