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  #1  
Old 19-08-12, 01:56
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 864
Default Battery holder plans

Thanks Tony,

It was a good Melbourne winter project when it is too cold and wet to be in the shed. Not exactly Queensland weather! I therefore could afford to put a bit of time into it.
I have attached a few more close up photos of an original holder, corner bend, stud plate, and lower retainer plate attachment to help those who may fabricate one from scratch. I could not attach them with the plans due to exceeding uploads.
Many thanks again for your help in getting the ball rolling for me on making one of the parts I have been seeking for a long time.

Cheers,
Attached Images
File Type: jpg battery hold .jpg (60.9 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg remains-front bar.jpg (52.4 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg corner bend .JPG (119.4 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg stud bracket plate.jpg (49.1 KB, 31 views)
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  #2  
Old 22-08-12, 10:03
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 864
Default Next sheetmetal project- Tool boxes

Have found a great metal fabricator in Cranbourne who is also a car restorer so he knows all about getting things right. Was going to try to bend up my holder myself but he has all the good stuff, pan brakes, folder etc. so he is just waiting for me to mark out the pattern on some sheet steel before he folds it for me. He is reasonable too, so I figure why risk a home made job.

As the battery holder is well under way, my next sheetmetal project is the small toolboxes that fit behind the rear wheels under the GS Body of my F-15A.
What I seek is info on the lids. I have two very banged up boxes and despite the attached photo which makes them look OK, I think making new ones would be a better option than "panel beating" the old ones.
Both are missing the lids so I have no idea what they should look like. I can see a remnant of a piano hinge spot welded to the box on both so that is a start.
I am sure it is a pretty basic design but if anyone out there can supply dimensions, sketches, or a photo of an original lid it would be gratefully appreciated.
Have drawn up these boxes also so if anyone is interested I will post them once I get the lid drawing correct. They are a very basic design.
FYI: the box shown has been stripped of all rust with the good old molasses and water trick. I see some posts on rust removal using some exotic chemicals but this old method works just as well if you have a bit of time.

Brgds,
Attached Images
File Type: jpg small box.jpg (59.5 KB, 41 views)
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  #3  
Old 22-08-12, 10:58
Bob McNeill Bob McNeill is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Orange, NSW Australia
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Default boxes

while making the boxes its worth while making an inner tray, so that when you want to put tire chains in there they are already contained in the tray, don,t fall out when you open the door.
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  #4  
Old 22-08-12, 12:46
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HIGHTON VIC
Posts: 8,218
Default Doors

They are a plain door with folded edges - here are a couple of angles on factory fresh vehicles:

Side view:



Rear view:



Hope this helps Jacques.
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Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook
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  #5  
Old 23-08-12, 00:52
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria Australia
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Default Chain box lids

Hi Bob and Keith,

Thanks for your info Bob. Thought they probably were for tire chains. Haven't got any chains yet but a low priority. One of those nice to have-but items.

Thanks again Keith for your help. I thought they would be very basic and the angled edge at the padlock end is good to know. Did not want to take too much "artistic license" with the design.

Brgds,
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  #6  
Old 31-08-12, 07:20
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Battery holder- update

Well, after a false start I am ready to finally get the holder folded up for me.
Learnt a few things along the way about sheetmetal work too.
I had the fabricator fold up the front retainer bar first to check bend deductions before I cut out the main sheetmetal for the holder. Glad I did, as the deduction worked out to a generous 3/16" (5 mm) using his equipment. I was therefore able to adjust the pattern before cutting.

As shown in the photo of the front bar the bottom leg "grew" by 3/16" by keeping the front leg exactly 1" high. The original piece of steel was 1-5/8" wide (moulded width) before folding.
When I got back to the fabricator he suggested I use galvanized steel which was 0.049" thick, only 0.002" less than the original. Wish he had suggested it to me before I got the black steel front piece from him.

Also experimented with sheet metal drilling before I drill the holes in the holder. As you all may know, when drilling sheetmetal it notoriously creates triangular holes even when done on a drill press with a sharp jobbers bit and clamped tightly as I confirmed. So a bit more reading and off to the local industrial supply house for a 17/64" stub drill, not the kind of item you get at the local Bunnings Warehouse (Home Depot for our North American friends).
So a bit more practice on steel offcuts with the new drill bit and maybe a pilot hole before I commit to the important holes. Stay tuned.

Brgds
Attached Images
File Type: jpg holder-bend deduction.jpg (32.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg holder-blank.jpg (80.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg holder-front bar.jpg (38.2 KB, 21 views)
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  #7  
Old 31-08-12, 22:29
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,122
Default Drilling sheet metal

Use a tapered sheet metal drill, the ones that look like a christmas tree.
Didn't know that until my son taught the old dog a new trick just a little while ago.
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