Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Battery box new 2.jpg Battery box new 1.jpg
Work continues on battery box. Bought the mild steel plate this afternoon and got home with enough time to cut this from the template I have. Was initially going to mark the shape only, and get the steel place in town to do the cutting, but it looked so easy to do, and I couldn't help myself. Hopefully the steel shop can do the folding for me tomorrow.
2HF.jpg
Next, thoughts turn to where to get a period looking Ford battery. Macsauto have them in USA, but they cannot be exported out.
!BcWKNY!Bmk~$(KGrHqYH-E!Equ2N-9,lBK0JG+Dg4!~~_12.jpg !BcUlD-QBmk~$(KGrHqEH-DcEq)OO+!TqBKz-gUzu6Q~~_12.jpg
I have seen this sneaky little system, that gives a slightly improved look over modern batteries, but still nowhere near what I desire.

Now trying to locate an original battery that I can 'gut' and make a mould of. Then reproduce it in fibreglass, for a modern battery to sit inside of. Don't see why that wouldn't work. The terminals could be 'relocated' to old positions on the cover and remain in modern location inside on the real battery.

Chassis is now delivered for blasting etc...

[Bob McNeill]

Tony IF you can find an old case it can be rebuilt, I,ve had my 6 volt rebuilt twice now by Pope Batteries in Blacktown NSW with a ten year period between, they even supplied the GMH sign to go on outside.for less than $120 who could ask for better. Try a slight smear of Stickky flex on the top of current unit to give rubber look. Fibreglass cover will reduce size and you need all the plates available. VW 6 volt battery is taller than most and won,t foul on cmp. under floor mount requires checking on early cars. I for one will not deduct points for having " modern " battery, along with tires it,s a safety issue.

[Private_collector]

Hello Bob,

Regarding original battery 'repacking'. Have spoken with several folks in town yesterday, and two have mentioned a particular business (business of one, I believe) who has done this with original batteries, and supplied to our local battery shop. I will be in town this afternoon to pick up my battery box from the shop that folded it for me. While i'm in town I will call in on the battery shop to ask about this.

Problem with getting an original case is simply the total lack of cases in circulation. I fully expect I will look & not find a suitable case, then once bought something less than ideal, hundreds of the bloody things will show up! That seems to be the way for me. Macs Auto in USA have a new battery that is perfect for me, but they don't ship O.S, even though the batteries are shipped dry. Add to that the huge post cost and it's not even worth the time to consider as an option. Surely there MUST be someone who has these in Aus, and if so, I will find them eventually. One of the guys I spoke to runs a Hot Rod shop in Gympie, and even he doesn't know of replica battery source.
Battery hold down frame 1.jpg Battery hold down frame 2.jpg
Tuesday I spent a couple of hours making a new battery hold down frame. I have altered the design a little for simplicity of construction,and hopefully it will be a little stronger as well. There will be a rubber pad running full length of both the end pieces, to protect the battery.

With it looking most likely that the chassis will not be back to me this week, I am filling in time doing some of these little jobs that wouldn't normally get done at this point. It's what I call the "little win" jobs.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi Tony,

Just a guess, i saw alot of battery casings being used as cigarette ash trays at a bowling club on the south coast of NSW. Might be a place to look and see if you can swap one for something?

Last i was at Pope Batteries in Sydney (blacktown to be specific) to have my jeep one rebuilt using my case, it cost me near on $300 (ouch... i wont be going back at that price- considering i bought the whole thing new, case and all 4 years before for around 180/200). He told me the palce which made casings is now closed/sold or so on- i think it all went to south africa and at the time he couldnt get casings (but if you had one, he would rebuild it as he had enough plates etc to last a long time).

I would be interested to know how much the people you were speaking to would charge for rebuilding a battery.

I am sure if you start asking around local farmers, you will find casings in sheds or on their rubbish tip.

Cheers,
Ian.

[Private_collector]

G'Day Ian,

You're right about the farmers. They have the most amazing things just sitting around. I'm already spreading the word amongst the 'cockys'.

Will be leaving for town in around 1hr, and i'll go straight to the battery place. They are really great people to deal with, so if there is any way they can help me, i know they will try.

I can't believe those old batteries would be used for ashtrays!!!! Good ol Australian ingenuity, eh.

I'll let you know how I go, this evening.

[Private_collector]

The battery box frame is back in my hands again, and it looks fairly good.
Battery box folded 3.jpg Battery box folded 4.jpg
I still have to attach the front piece. That is a job for tomorrow, as is final adjustment of the hold down bolts. In the photos you can see I have held one set of bolts in place with sticky tape for now. That probably wouldn't be sufficient for real use, so I better put nuts on too

The hold down plate actually fits, yay! I made it while the frame was still at the sheet metal shop being folded, and was sweating on getting it back to see if I had wasted my time. As it turns out............I hadn't.
Battery box folded 1.jpg Battery box folded 2.jpg
I really wanted rivets, but besides the fact I couldn't find any, I also wouldn't fancy my chances of inserting them without making a fair bollocks of the job.
Battery box folded 5.jpg
So I settled for these hex head bolts. I will rough the keyway up a little once tightened in place, and they will get a dollop of body filler in the holes. Sanding the filler correctly should give the appearance of rivets!

Had a disappointing discussion with the local battery shop staff regarding finding a correct style battery. No joy there. They have recently taken over the business and don't know anywhere I could get what I wanted. I did find the name of a place in Vic. that may be of help. I'll phone them in the morning.

With it looking unlikely that I will get exactly what I want, and bearing in mind I may run 12v anyway, I came up with a slightly lateral idea. The battery only needs to look original from the top and front. Assuming I eventually find ANY old Ford battery as a pattern, I can make a 'fake' battery top that is actually part of the battery hold down plate! If I make another plate that is slightly higher side profile, I can have the fake battery top showing on outside, with the real battery top hidden beneath, completely out of view. It's shifty but it should work if done well. May be able to incorporate the fake battery front into the mix as well.

All this just because I don't like the look of modern batteries.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi mate,

Yes, were are a clever bunch. When i told the bloke at Pope in sydney, he said they were likely cracked, but i had never forgotten they were there!

The holder looks good! Well done there.

If you did want rivets, there is a guy here sin Sydney has ALOT. Mainly for vintage car hood irons, check here, his name is Richard. http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/...ian-Hood-Irons

Shame about the battery place. Good luck on the hunt in Victoria. I'd also suggest trying Pope batteries here in Sydney as they did do the rubber case style, but as I said above, I'm not sure if they can still do new batterie- I'm sure they have tried to get more cases as that was one of their main draw cards!

Cheers,
Ian.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Hello Bob,

Regarding original battery 'repacking'. Have spoken with several folks in town yesterday, and two have mentioned a particular business (business of one, I believe) who has done this with original batteries, and supplied to our local battery shop. While i'm in town I will call in on the battery shop to ask about this.

Problem with getting an original case is simply the total lack of cases in circulation. I fully expect I will look & not find a suitable case, then once bought something less than ideal, hundreds of the bloody things will show up! That seems to be the way for me. Macs Auto in USA have a new battery that is perfect for me, but they don't ship O.S, even though the batteries are shipped dry. Add to that the huge post cost and it's not even worth the time to consider as an option. Surely there MUST be someone who has these in Aus, and if so, I will find them eventually.

There was a discussion on batteries HERE.

Macs sources their batteries from THIS manufacturer (Click on Batteries>Ford>Ford 40-53). All well and good for North American customers, but we might baulk at the shipping costs here in Aus (and they will ship to Aus). As the manufacturer, you could ask if they would be prepared to ship you just the empty case for you to have packed here?

[Private_collector]

Tony, my dear chap,

Thanks for the web link. I have emailed Antique Auto Batteries a few minutes ago, asking (well kind of pleading) for either an empty case of the bits that would make up the top, so I could make my own. Visually at least.

If nothing else comes from visiting that site, there were some excellent photos showing every detail of the 2HF battery. That will come in handy, should I have to try and duplicate.
battery top for GM.jpg
I'm obviously not the first one to think of 'dummy' battery tops! Still haven't found a Ford one, but i'm still looking.

[Private_collector]

Battery box is finished.
Battery holder frame 1.jpg Battery holder frame 2.jpg Battery holder frame 3.jpg
Just requires painting & it's ready to be attached to the step assembly. None of those parts are ready yet, though. Still to be blasted......apparently.
Battery holder frame 4.jpg
I'm happy with the way these bolts look with the filler added. They're not perfect, but they will do me for 'claytons' rivets.

[Private_collector]

While awaiting the return of the chassis, I have a range of things to turn my attention to. The battery box was obviously the first, and this afternoon I started work on the fuel tanks. I have a number of tanks, ranging from totally buggered to not quite good enough to use as is. The passenger side tank falls into the latter category, but will only need minor cosmetic work, at least on the outside! Inside is full of flaky surface rust, but that will be addressed later. The driver side tank is sound but full of dents ranging from coin size to full blown heavy damage to one of the welded seam edges. I will post some photos of that little treasure in coming days, but what I wanted to write today is in relation to a funny incident that occured today.

I started pulling out the damage on the seam, and quickly realised I could do more harm than good, because I don't have the required equipment. Not wanting to cease completely, I investigated removal of the rusted-in drain plug. Whatever the bolt (or maybe something else) used to look like, was now just the portion left after somebody snapped it off at about 1/8in above the outside of the tank.

First I drilled the centre, then drilled larger, then larger, until I felt it would take a substantial size ezy-out. Using the ezy-out failed miserably and was looking likely that it too may snap, so I stopped. With the original bolt rusted tightly, I wondered if I could just tap a thread to its inside and add a smaller diameter bolt. Tapped the hole to 3/8in, made several passes with the tap, then inserted a 3/8in bolt. The bolt went in with much encouragement, getting harder to turn with each attempt..............until..............yep, it snapped too. Now I had a snapped bolt within another snapped bolt. Cursed myself for being so bloody stupid, then started the drilling all over again.

Finally removed both of the bolts. Cleaned up the now gaping hole, and tapped the hole to 1/2in. This one took, and I gingerly tried the correct size bolt without any problems.

The driver side tank will need to be given to a panel beater to pull out the damage on the edge, properly. Maybe next week for that. Passenger side tank will get a good sanding tomorrow or Sunday.

What do people use to de-rust the insides of fuel tanks?????