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Old 03-06-12, 14:54
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Richard Harrison
 
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Andrew I would have thought the rangerover pump would have been more than up to the job... Have you plumbed in a return feed from the reg back to the tank ? Failing that type in Facet fuel pump in eBay and fill yet boots matey
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Old 03-06-12, 15:11
andrew honychurch andrew honychurch is offline
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Having Googled the RR pump, which is a Facet as it happens, it looks to be rated at 18 gallon/hr, whereas some of the Facet pumps, red top etc, reach 40 gallons/hr.

I have not arranged a return feed to the tank, not sure whether it is necessary as I have a Filter King regulator which limits the fuel flow and reduces the tendency for the pump to overcome the float bowl needle.

Anyway, David Gordon, Horsa, has not arranged a return to my knowledge. Why do you think I need one Richard??
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Old 03-06-12, 15:21
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Why not buy a new diphram for the original fuel pump and then place a marine outboard fuel primer bulb in the fuel line. I used this very successfully with my carrier. Give the bulb a few squeezes and it fills the carb right up. I found it easier then messing around with an electric fuel pump
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Old 03-06-12, 15:37
andrew honychurch andrew honychurch is offline
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hi Jordan, the only reason I have opted to go electric is the lack of supply of original equipment diaphrams in ethanol resistent material. My experience of using NOS items is that the ethanol turns the material to black goo. Which fills up the carburettor with gunge and fails to produce fuel supply. The secondary effect is to allow fuel to feed into the sump, diluting the oil and running the mains!!! May I am wrong, but electric seems easier, and when you have a T16 stuck on the side of the road with fuel supply problems its an expensive recovery operation!
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Old 03-06-12, 16:01
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Are you looking for wartime fuel diaphrams? If so I can't think you will find them. I used an original fuel pump on my carrier but easily replaced the diaphram with a new made one from Macs Antique Auto parts. I would think any online vintage ford parts dealer would stock these
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Old 03-06-12, 15:55
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Problem with marine primer bulb

Hi

Been reading this thread with interest as the increasing levels of ethanol in gas is a problem. In the USA they are looking at going from 10% to 15% which I fear will lead to a new round of problems.

In the US they had to change the Marine Primer Bulb composition a couple of years ago as at that time marine gas didn't have ethanol and vehicle gas did. There was a round of problems caused by people filling their boat tanks at the local gas station. So if you are going to add a primer bulb be sure to check that it is rated for ethanol.

I have discovered one other problem with marine primer bulb connected in line with electric fuel pump. Testing engines on the test stand I discovered that if the bulb doesn't get completely purged of air that the electric fuel pumps may not be able to suck the fuel through because of the cushion effect of the air and the rubber bulb is just enough to absorb the individual strokes of the electric fuel pump. Once the bulb is purged of air this problem seems to go away. Found the problem by putting a combination fuel pressure and vacuum gauge on either side of the bulb to note the difference.

A higher flow electric or mechanical probably would not have this problem.

Wasn't there an electric fuel pump that was used in some of the Ford CMPs to help cure some fuel supply and vapor lock problems?

Cheers Phil
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Old 03-06-12, 16:07
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Andrew just in the past I have used them so the fuel delivery stays at correct pressure you have mentioned an adjustable reg so it's in the realms of the unknown for me, I had a mini turbo which needed 3.5psi constant for fuel, the reg was a standard item none adjustable so issues sometimes occurred where the engine idled fine but under load it would be starved of fuel,,,, the fix was to use a return feed and the delivery fuel lines were not to have a diameter less than 8mm
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Old 03-06-12, 19:56
andrew honychurch andrew honychurch is offline
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I had not looked into getting a new manufactured diaphram from MAC or similar. One of the other reasons I opted for electric with a Filter King is they have some ability to "push" the fuel through in a more consistent manor which I am led to believe counters the effect of the modern fuels which are more prone to vapourisation. Anyway, I am fairly confident the system I have rigged will work ok, as long as my pump is providing the necessary volume.
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Old 03-06-12, 20:34
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It might be worth looking into it. They are rather cheap. The problems I have had were with a very hot engine being shut off. This I found had the fuel evaporating from the carb bowl after the heat transferred up from the block. With the primer bulb I just gave couple quick squeezes and I was ready to go. I found with the electric pump I kept getting flooding problems.
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Old 03-06-12, 20:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
Wasn't there an electric fuel pump that was used in some of the Ford CMPs to help cure some fuel supply and vapor lock problems?
Yes, the Autopulse, it was standard on Indian Army CMPs. Read more here on its purpose and operation.

Hanno
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Old 03-06-12, 23:46
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I'd also done a lot of research into the use of electric fuel pumps on military vehicles during the war as a fix to operational problems in hot regions prior to going that route on my own T-16.

The modern pump I ended up using is rated for 4-7psi but this is restricted by the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that I have set at 3.5psi since the wartime manuals mention that pressure in association with the carburator.

Not sure how this equates to actual fuel flow since that would entail math formulas dealing with the pressure and capacity of the fuel lines
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  #12  
Old 04-06-12, 00:25
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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If I recall, the 94 and 97 stromberg carbs are delivered fuel at 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 psi. any more and the carb will flood. This pressure is achieved solely by the spring under the diaphragm in the mechanical pump.
If the carb is flooding from the electric pump when the engine is stopped, why wouldnt it be flooding, when its running (and vibribation is also happening)
There are three things here. delivery pressure, suction (the ability of the pump to lift the fuel to the pump measured in inches of mercury or the metric equivalent) and lastly the delivery volume.
It sounds to me, that you have too much pressure and not enough volume.
If you put a test gauge on your delivery pipe to the carb you can check the delivery pressure directly. If it is too high that will cause your carb to flood, and that can be a little tricky for even the mechanics among us to diagnose. (we can often wrongly decide its starving) Many of the electric pumps will deliver a hansome pressure. I saw one advertised recently at 8 1/2 psi. (Alfa Romeo used to have an adjustable pressure regulator called a "Fisba" for the carbs (Delorto, Webber, Solex)
My gut feeling is that you might have an air leak into the lines somewhere, between the pick up(s), and the pump suction side. these can be difficult to find. One of the prime possibilities will be the fuel change over valve (assuming you have one)
The best way to check this is run a temporary line (reservoir included) to the pump, and see how she goes.
If that fixes it, re introduce what ever sections you can, until you find the leak.
You could use a vacuum gauge on the suction side of the pump. Get a reading, and see if its the same at your fuel pick up pipes at the tank(s)
On the vapour lock, The original lines were steel not copper. This might help to slow the rate of heat transfer. Making up the pipes with the risk of vapour lock accuring in mind, might help.I have seen some really bad results.
Lastly, I would check that you have no blockages any where in the lines. I know a lot of it is new, but it is amazing where swarf, solder, thread tape, silicon, and every other type of gunge can get to, in a new system.
Hope this helps when your lost for ideas.
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Last edited by Lynn Eades; 04-06-12 at 08:45.
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  #13  
Old 04-06-12, 06:46
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I've used electric pumps on daily driver vehicles and have found that you need to use a pressure regulator with a return line. If you use a dead head regulator then the pump will burn itself out in no time because it's putting out all the pressure it can all the time. With the return line the pump just makes whatever pressure you've got the regulator set at. A bonus with the return line is you totally eliminate vapour locking problems. Any vapour that forms is sent back to the tank in the return line. Also with the fuel circulating all the time you end up with cooler gas getting to the carb which helps with lots of problems. Any more I use a tank pump off a throttle body injection system since they last forever when just putting out 5 psi or so.
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