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  #1  
Old 22-05-12, 12:21
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Firstly, you cheeky bugger

Secondly Mike, I don't see the chassis number plate! Where is it.
It's either out of shot or I have a detached retina again!

Where did you select the chassis number from?

T.
Tony
I couldn't find a chassis number anywhere on the chassis , even during sandblasting it . The data plate on the engine cover was missing

I used a C8 chassis number , in the sequence of numbers for a early C8 . It's only club rego, who cares .

I must repaint the vehicle and get it back on the road ........ one day
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  #2  
Old 22-05-12, 12:37
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I have a fear that I will need to do something like that for my truck as well.

I don't recall the exact places people have told me to look, but despite looking over all those areas, I STILL can't find anything........anywhere.

Maybe after the sandblasting?!?!

I have a friend that managed to bluff the Transport Dept. that these vehicles didn't have a chassis number at all, and I think he got issued a VIN without problems.

Also heard of a fellow stamping his vehicle with the number that his engine had, and he also states to have gotten away with that.

Knowing my luck, i'll get a die hard CMP enthusiast!!!!!!!!

T.
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  #3  
Old 04-06-12, 13:31
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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With the info from Mike and Dave I started by wrapping the frame sections in paper and tracing all holes, so I always have a pattern as "backup" when it turns out I have welded up too much holes. Than it was basically a matter of welding the holes up and spending some time grinding everything smooth. The last bit took a wee bit longer than expected, because the weather suddenly improved and I didn't want to bother the BBQ-ing neighbours with my grinding. ....So i had to wait a few days for the temp to drop and everyone to go inside.


Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Weld1.jpg (50.6 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Weld2.jpg (42.3 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg Weld3.jpg (46.8 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg Weld4.jpg (44.7 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Weld5.jpg (40.5 KB, 45 views)
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  #4  
Old 04-06-12, 13:32
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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last picture


In the meantime I have started up loosening several suspension bolts on the C8, because that will be my next step....getting the axles and leaves disassembled.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Weld6.jpg (40.9 KB, 29 views)
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  #5  
Old 01-07-12, 13:02
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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One of the last things to do on the chassis was to remove the "threaded pin" used to secure the left front leaf spring. According to the manual it was just a matter of "unscrew the pin", but after 70 years this was not as easy. As the pin taper towards the ends, it is very hard to grab it with any kind of tool, so after several attempts I used heat to get it going. I heated up the casting and it was actually pretty easy to remove the pin and the bushing (which has actually merged into one after all these years) with slight tapping with a hammer.

I measured the chassis points according to the MB-C1 manual, and even though the C8 is not covered in this manual, the technique is the same. One measurement was slightly off, so I decided to use a strap and see what happened. It only took a few minutes and the chassis was completely within tolerance.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg drawing.jpg (80.9 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Chass.jpg (70.3 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg Chass3.jpg (57.2 KB, 43 views)
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  #6  
Old 01-07-12, 13:19
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Removing the shock absorbers from the C8 was pretty easy. They even have good resistance when I move the arms up and down, but I have to figure out what to do with one of the links, as the end is broken off.....and will also have to source new rubbers as most dried out.

The wheel nuts prove to be a real pain. I figured it would be wise to loosen them up at this stage in stead of when the axles were removed from the truck. At least I could now benefit from the weight of the truck.
The nuts from three wheels were easily removed, but the left rear wheel was a different case. I used penetrating fluid, heat and a long arm to get 5 of them undone, but that last one.... Well, one of the pictures show a few of the tools I wrecked in the process....a breaker bar was successfull with the first few nuts, but with that last one.....well...what's in a name...it broke. I welded it again and tried, but no luck. In the end I ground down the end and used it as bar to use with another tool and so on, and so on. French army spanner broke. In the end I used the angle grinder to cut the nut of and than finally I could get the wheel off.

The chassis was initially sprayed in a black primer after sand blasting and I brushed another few coats on afterwards and after all repairs. Now all work was done, I sanded down the chassis, removing all paint streaks, hairs of the paint brush etc. I than sprayed on a coat of primer, waited a week or so and than applied a first coat of Khaki Green nr. 3. I hope I can spray a second coat tomorrow.

Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Chass4.jpg (108.1 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg Chass5.jpg (84.7 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Chass6.jpg (106.2 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg Chass7.jpg (65.7 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg Chass8 copy.jpg (61.5 KB, 65 views)
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  #7  
Old 01-07-12, 23:21
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Looking good Alex, I see one of the Generals came round for a brief inspection

H.
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  #8  
Old 20-04-17, 15:37
Louis Skebo Louis Skebo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex van de Wetering View Post
One of the last things to do on the chassis was to remove the "threaded pin" used to secure the left front leaf spring. According to the manual it was just a matter of "unscrew the pin", but after 70 years this was not as easy. As the pin taper towards the ends, it is very hard to grab it with any kind of tool, so after several attempts I used heat to get it going. I heated up the casting and it was actually pretty easy to remove the pin and the bushing (which has actually merged into one after all these years) with slight tapping with a hammer.

I measured the chassis points according to the MB-C1 manual, and even though the C8 is not covered in this manual, the technique is the same. One measurement was slightly off, so I decided to use a strap and see what happened. It only took a few minutes and the chassis was completely within tolerance.
It seems that my frame is off a bit as well - do you have a picture with the frame dimensions/measurements?

Cheers.

louie
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  #9  
Old 21-04-17, 00:04
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Hi Louie,

I am afraid I don't have any chassis measurements for your C15A. The MB-C1 manual just describes the technique of measuring the chassis diagonally and comparing left to right....along with the acceptable deviation. Attached are the relevant pages; I hope this helps you with your Chev.

Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg scannen0003.jpg (247.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg scannen0002x.jpg (211.8 KB, 8 views)
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