![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Pedal plate primed.jpg
With the sun out again, pedal plate got welded & primed. Engine hatch 2..jpg As did engine cover. Engine hatch 3.jpg Engine hatch 4.jpg In fact, I also painted the inside edges, after two good coats of primer. I wouldn't normally paint edges alone, but the rest will not be seen once I layer the inside with heat & acoustic insulation. engine insulation.jpg Spent an hour cutting templates for the insides of cover, then cut the pieces of insulation. I had bought a metre (~3ft ish) which looked big in the shop but not so big when the templates were laid over it. More to come
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
engine insulation 1.jpg
The insulation was easy enough to cut with a box knife. Also making sure to cut part way through where the cover metal has the bends. Negative folds required removal of a small 'v' of the foam from back side, so that insulation would bend correctly without bunching up. engine insulation 2.jpg It sit quite well, but make sure it's in the right place before touching it to the surface or there will be a huge effort getting it unstuck. I tried that on purpose on the workshop door before I started the 'real' installation. There would still be some there now if I hadn't used turpentine to remove it! engine insulation 3.jpg A metre of insulation can do the entire inside, if you cut it right. I marked mine right, then cut the last piece in the wrong place. ![]() ![]() Instead of buying more, I have left it that way, to remind me to be more careful in future. It'll drive me mad every time I see it, believe me. ![]() More to come....
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Last thing for today.
side curtain access flaps 1.jpg Cut the 'polycarbonate' sheet into two new access flap cards for the side curtains. I don't know what the difference betweeen perspex & polycarbonate is, but I have been assured it is very much stronger and long lasting. side curtain access flaps 3.jpg I drilled two holes in each flap, where the corresponding metal piece is on frame, and glued two magnets into the plastic. By pure good fortune, the magnets are almost exactly the same thickness as the plastic sheet. They are just a tiny bit narrower, so the holes I drilled were not all the way through. That way the magnets can't be pulled out of the plastic. side curtain access flaps 5.jpg With these bits finished, and reference photos printed on Saturday, all pieces can now go to the Auto Upholsterer tomorrow afternoon. I have been advised it will take about 2 days to make the new curtains.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
All the materials, photos & instructions are now with the upholsterer.
These side curtains may be finished by this weekend! I have just been reminded that next Monday is a public holiday, which means more time to work on the truck ![]() I may even be able to arrange a visit to a friend who has got a valve grinding tool put aside for me. It looks to be really old and while it is not exactly spartan, could come in very handy in future.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I am looking for some guidance regarding the panel that sits between front panel and radiator. That sort of rectangular shroud thing, you know?
Does this bit sit in front or behind the nose panel? And, does it just bolt on, or is it supposed to be spot welded to something? I have two of these which both need some minor remedial work. I want to go onto the nose panel after finishing the engine cover & pedal plate, and will work on the 'shroud' panel at same time, therefor I need to know what I am supposed to do with it. All information appreciated guys, ![]() T.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The front radiator shroud is a one piece item which is held in place by the grille - the bolts go through the grille and then shroud and then into the front shell. You sort of have to 'wangle' it a bit to put it in through the aperture. Its inner edge conforms to the shape of the front of the radiator to ensure it does it's job of funnelling all the air through the radiator and not out through the sides. The rear shroud which attaches to the back of the radiator then ensures the fan draws the maximum amount of air through the cooling tubes. It's also a handy thing for the fan to rub on very noisily when the radiator out of alignment.
__________________
Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Cheers for that info, Keith.
I don't have a rear shroud. I let one slip through my fingers several weeks ago. It was a bit pricey for me at over $100! ![]()
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|