Humber FV1611(A)

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Wayne

Gunk and other degreasers containing or mixed with petroleum, must be carefully cleaned off after they have been use on painted surfaces, particularly paint containing flatteners such as military paints. The petroleum likes to hide in the porous surface of the paint or metal. Cast iron is a particular problem. That it leaves a oily residue may not be all bad though if you don't plan to paint right away.

As suggested following the instructions would be a good idea, but maybe hard to do as the most recent jug of the traditional Gunk I purchase doesn't make any reference to cleaning surfaces for painting, nor could I find it on their web site. (Alex, I think you are right the instructions were there at one time.)

I still use Gunk because it's still one of the most effective ways of dealing with grease and dirt mixed together, short of steam cleaning.

Temperature and heat of the rinse water are the keys to the process below about 70F cleaning is slow to non existent. Rinsing with cold water seems to have a very limited effect may get the lumps of grease off but will leave oily residue. I use a biodegradable degreaser after washing off the Gunk solution. The hotter the water you use the better. Then before painting use Prepsol or another painting prep product. Once you have done all this to a bare piece of steel it will rust in a matter of days.

Cheers and happy parts cleaning Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress.

As to Gunk- Just for laughs just went back on their web site and asked their tech person - Dr. Gunk - Where would I find information about cleaning surfaces for painting after using Gunk degreaser? It will be interesting to see what I get as a response.

Cheers Phil

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress.

As to Gunk- Just for laughs just went back on their web site and asked their tech person - Dr. Gunk - Where would I find information about cleaning surfaces for painting after using Gunk degreaser? It will be interesting to see what I get as a response.

Cheers Phil

Phil thank you for the words of encouragement. I would like to go faster but life pressures and work take rule I guess. I will be with Miss Piggy next week in ernest and will update thread on what I did or didn't achieve. I also hope to see Clive Elliott, all being well to further share the knowledge and be precise. Hopefully.

As a bit of luck after some messaging on HMVF over here I did manage to aquire this wee item, which I am very excited about for the PIGGY.





After lots of rags and penetrating oil / WD40 she cleaned up quite nisely

[FV1611A]

Whats the size of a wheel nut on a Humber Pig.......Also I assume a 6 ton bottle jack is okay under 1 wheel station to remove a wheel.

I know it should be a vehicle overall less than Jack capacity. Wonder what weight dispercement is on each corner??

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

1 1/8 AF socket will fit the Wheel nut. (Left hand thread on the passenger side of course)
Original jack for the cargo Humber was 4 ton, I imagine it would have been the same for the Pig as the loaded weight was similar.

Rich.

[fv1620]

Wayne it takes a bit of getting used to when you first jack up a Humber because of the independent suspension on each wheel station.

If you put the jack under the outer part of the suspension arm as you try to jack up the wheel, it stays put & that side of the rear axle goes down.

If you jack up from the inner arm or diff guard, then as it goes up the wheel station keeps drooping down.

What I do is place a couple of shortened railway sleepers on top of each other under the diff guard, then jack up from the outer part of the suspension arm.

I prefer railways sleepers to a jack or an axle stand is that should there be some movement of the vehicle, it is not going to topple off the jack/axle stand.

I always prefer a screw jack to a hydraulic one if I'm going underneath. Not just because you don't have to worry if the fluid screw is not fully in & it is going down slowly, but generally a decent screw jack will have a broader base than a bottle & less likely to topple.

The Pig CES specifies Jack Screw, Hand lifting, Geared Triple lift, 4 ton, 7 in closed height, 18.5 in extended height, 5120-99-201-4907

I think a couple of years ago I posted a picture on one of the Humber threads on here.

[FV1611A]

Clive thank you. I did wonder how that suspension was going to work with a jack. At least a 6T Bottle Jack is sufficient rating for lifting a wheel!

I note the point on screw against hydraulic.

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Richard Coutts-Smith

1 1/8 AF socket will fit the Wheel nut. (Left hand thread on the passenger side of course)
Original jack for the cargo Humber was 4 ton, I imagine it would have been the same for the Pig as the loaded weight was similar.

Rich.

Thanks Rich

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress. Cheers Phil

Phil I have a bit to do but I will do my best.

The old girl cranked over the other day and spun freely.

No fuel but allowed some lubrication to moisten the veins in her heart.

The next day I had a good tutorial with Clive that made more sense as I am getting more aware of Humber facts instead of Land Rover.

Few jobs next time may be gravity fed fuel delivery after the re-install of plugs blast cleaned by Clives friend 'Wally'. Nice piece of kit .

I need to remove, inspect and replace as required fuel filter. Drop old fuel that is circa 10 years old and flush tanks through. At least fuel is liquid and not varnish! The carb will be given a good health check and overall too. Probably refurbished before fitting.

I also want to splash some rust protectant paint on a few patches to prevent any damage short term damage using Deproma! Good product