cmp cab frame required

[jason meade]

Holy crap where was it left in a salt mine...there had to be a small about of body filler in that 21 years ago to fall apart like that...I thought salt on the roads here was bad...lol

[Keith Orpin]

OMG !. How could anyone be so heartless to leave suce a nice looking Chevy outside, to face the elements, unprotected for so long. Still, hopefully, Kevin will sort her out. It looks like she is a late production 13 cab, as she has sling plates on the front axle. Be interesting to see some more shots of her, i.e. dash etc when you get chance.
You asked about removal of the cab, all fairly straight forward, it should be all bolted/rusted together. Remove the dog house over the engine inside the cab, unbolt and remove the doors and floor plates, gear lever gaitors etc and wing sections first, followed by removal of any wiring which may still be present on the front cowl (watch you don't damage the rad, if it's still fitted), then the top half of the roof, which is bolted to the top outer windscreen frame and waist line of the lower and upper rear panel. Now unbolt and remove the outer windscreen frame (you have to lift this up). Remove the lower back panel, and you should be left with the angle iron archbar frame work and floor frame work. Disconnect the fuel lines and any earthing straps, that may be there. The floor frame work will be bolted either side of the chassis, more or less in line with the front axle, and though a spring arrangement at the back and center of the cab. Find yourself a couple of willing helpers and lift the floor section away.
It sounds a lot, but 1/2 a day should see the front end removed
Hope this helps.
Good luck with her, and keep us all posted/updated
Regards
Keith

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Kevin

Take heart it can be restored, being from the pictures relatively complete it is a good candidate for restoration. Though you originally asked about a cab frame my experience has been that it really is not the frame of the cab but more the sheet metal which on CMPs relatively simple with some of the curve pieces as exceptions. The cab top is the hardest part, but as the truck can be enjoyed with that removed, leave it for last. Get the critter running do the work to make it safe to drive it on the road and start enjoying it while you hunt for a replacement cab top. Of course if you can find a donor cab in good, better condition that will be a huge jump on restoration process.

Cheers Phil

[kevin powles]

Hi, Have pressure washed the truck today, the chassis is absolutly solid, removed all the rubbish in the back, their is a makers plate on the rear buck, i will photograph it, something to do with wireless use. I have know looked at the cab construction and will start dismantling, what i do need is a new metal panel for the headlight on the drivers side, i think the nose cone can be saved. The engine is stuck, plugs out and open to ideas on freeing the pistons off. The rear buck wood work floor is all rotton but its an easy repair, wheels turn freely, still 6 volts on this one, checker floor plate in the cab is all solid.

I need to pump the tyres up also, what pressure should they be ??.

pictures attached.

kevin

[Ben]

Hat off...... If four carriers weren't enough to keep you busy now you've got a truck!! Does the Mrs know about this one? :-))

Ben

[Jack Innes]

If the engine is just stuck from sitting & there is no great evidence of rust on the plugs you might try putting some oil or penetrating oil and some Oil of Wintergreen in each cylinder. Let it stand for as long as possible then carefully try to rotate the flywheel either way with a good pry bar on the ring gear teeth from below. You should first remove the rocker cover & see that all of the valves are free - The older Chevrolet engines tend to stick their valves, then on getting the crank shaft turning the push rods will bend or the rockers can break.

[Bob Carriere]

Be careful..... they can look good but blow like a shotgun......

In good shape they can handle 50 PSI but play safe....you can roll it around easily at 15 to 20 pounds....the tire carcass will take a lot to flex and carry a lot of weight even with just 5 pounds in the tires.... check the side walls outside and on the inside for cracking....

For driving around 35 pounds unloaded would be good......

Bob