Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[T Creighton]

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

[Private_collector]

Thanks Terry,

Those photos will help me greatly.

It may be easier for me to have these fabricated by someone else. There is a local tourist attraction here, The Woodworks Museum. The machinery is all working and they do demonstrations for tourist groups. I might be able to get them interested in making those parts for me with minimal cost. I only thought of that last night. I will call in on the woodwork museum later today to ask if they are interested in taking a small commission

The Woodworks Museum is here: http://www.woodworksmuseum.com.au/index.asp

We also have a Gold Mining Museum, with working equipment and huge range of displays, from mining equip to military weapons: http://www.gympiegoldmuseum.com.au/

We also have the Mary Valley Heritage Railway (MVHR), with vintage rail engines that run on their own rail network of about 45-50km.
http://www.thevalleyrattler.com/

PB210024.JPG PB210025.JPG
I took one of my door 'side curtains' to a local upholsterer. He was busy trimming a vintage utility truck when I called, so I have left the curtain with him, to examine. He will call me to advise price to make new canvas covers. I have ask him to save himself and my side curtain, if his workshop catches fire.

I'm in no hurry for the curtains, so it may work out well if I have him do these when work is low.

[Lynn Eades]

So what is it? Fire or Flood? Do you have both at once?

[Private_collector]

Well.....we HAD a flood. He better NOT have a fire He still has my curtain!


25-2.jpg
Check this out! What a bargain. Great for a boatie? From a buyers perspective, this is the time to inspect. The irony is, you CAN'T get in here to see it when its like this.

We bought our land high up. The problem with that is the higher winds that blow up the hill from the more 'swampy' elevations.

Still, thats what insurance is for.

You won't see me on television whining & saying "and it's not insured"

P.S: The block of land in the above photo was ENTIRELY under water. Not even one ant hills worth of dirt above the water!

[Private_collector]

Rained off & on again today, so STILL no top coat painting.
Dash switches.jpg
I finished installing and checking the switches on dash.
SMLE.jpg Rifle & Clip.jpg
Reworked the rifle clips. Now they are straight again.
Also found a suitable size 'felt' to line the inside of the clip, so the rifle doesn't get damaged. I restored this No. 1 SMLE some years ago (Deac.) and don't fancy it getting scratched by the strong metal clip, thank you very much. The felt is actually one half of a set of velcro! I will trim it so it can't be easily seen.
Captain dodgy.jpg
The windscreen main frame is now fully repaired. The rust hole repair was not pretty welding, but it's functional.
I had to repair: 1x rust through, replace 1x windscreen slide thread, weld up 4x windscreen hinge holes (threads too loose), drill & re-tap 4x windscreen hinge holes, weld 1x windscreen slide thread (someone had cut 3/4 way through it!), Grind & body fill corrosion pitting along most of inside upper edge.
rear panel.jpg
Gave the rear cab panel a second sanding, to rectify an area I wasn't happy with. I had applied further blade putty yesterday afternoon.

[Private_collector]

elec1.jpg elec2.jpg elec3.jpg
If weather is STILL bad tomorrow, I plan to continue with the under-dash electrical stuff. As you can see, the backing board is fully stuffed! I'm thinking of Masonite for a replacement. Anybody done this in the past? New resistor coming from Victoria, plus a 'spare' for the travel fault kit.
elec4.jpg
I bought 3 new rubber grommits for the voltage regulator while I was in town this afternoon. They are not original specs but will do OK. I have noticed my other regulator (not yet rcleaned up) has a lot more writing on the cover. I believe both are Ford, but the other one matches one seen in a photo Keith sent me recently. Might have a closer look at that tomorrow morning.

[Private_collector]

Keith,
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Is this for CMP? I can't find it in my F60 or F15 parts books.
It's obviously Ford, but which ford?

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

Tony,

The base has aslope inside the base to allow the rifle butt to sit correctly. It is thicker one end than the other. Don't fall for the trap of making them flat as the rifle won't rest easy.

Regards Rick.

[Private_collector]

Cheers Rick,

I didn't know that. I had wondered if it would be an issue, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere, so thought it mustn't have been a problem.

Whether I make them, or have them made for me, i'll make sure that is catered for. That will mean I have to get the rear panel (with upper rifle brackets full attached) finished so I can gauge the angle from 'real-life'.

I had intended to call in to the Gympie Woodworks Museum while I was in town this afternoon, but they wern't open!!! Try again tomorrow