CHEV 216 VS Chev 235

[Phil Waterman]

Back to Gilles original question

Originally Posted by CWO (ret) Gilles Aubé

Is there an easy way to difference a Chev 216 VS a Chev 235?

I think the answer is no there is no easy way to differentiate 216 from 235. The only way I have ever found is by casting numbers on the block. Part of the problem is that the Stovebolt Six Engine was such an evolutionary engine being built over so many years in how many different countries?

It is not even easy to tell early (military ) 216 from 235 once the heads are off

216 Bore 3 1/2 Stroke 3 3/4
235 Bore 3 9/16 Stroke 3 15/16

So if you are going engine hunting print out one of the casting number tables and take it along. I have printed out two list that I have in my search notebook http://www.inliners.org/becks/BCN2.html and http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/...tory/cast.html. One warning though I have seen engines that had casting numbers which are not listed.

Cheers Phil

PS I had not noticed but several of the Chevy web sites I have used for years have David Hayward as an acknowledge source. Good Work.

[David_Hayward (RIP)]

Thanks for the plaudits.

I have Canadian-specific Chevrolet casting numbers on my database up to around 1959.

The other way to tell is by the serial number and any prefixes. C = light commercial 216, T = heavier commercial 216, K= light commercial 224 GMC and G = heavier 224 as used in Maple Leafs. I have not yet found a Canadian wartime 235 but it could have had a TT prefix. The letter R indicated rhd of course.

Post-war:

ENGINE PREFIXES to 1953:

216 CAR: NO PREFIX

216 LIGHT COMMERCIAL: “C”

216 TRUCK: “X”

235 TRUCK: “T”

239 GMC/PONTIAC: “W” for “Walkerville”?

PLUS ALL R.H.D. ENGINES HAD “R” AS A PREFIX

[young man emu]

I had a problem with the white metal lifting on the big end so i put a 1948 235 in to my C15 .
It fitted well into the engine bay but the fan is to high.
So i had problem with over heating so i have got a electric fan now.
I have been told there is a fix but have not found it yet.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

The solution for difference in location of water pump on later 235 and 261s is an adapter plate.


more on the adapter plate see http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/2...ifications.htm cost of the plate is small compared to the time to make one. Here is the guy I purchased my two plates from pre68bowtie@hotmail.com .

The time consuming part is finding the correct water pump with the short shaft and the correct size pulley. Short shaft is necessary for clearance to the radiator and the correct pulley size is to keep the fan speeds reasonable, should be the same as the engine RPM.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

The adptor plate shown above works with the 1942 or later water pump which can best be identified by the angled outlet and the two holes in the original backing plate. If you want to use a similar plate with the earlier pump used on CMP 216s (identified by an outlet parallel to the ground and a single hole in the backing plate) you will need to make it yourself. If you choose to make such a plate, pay attention to the clearance for the bolt head that is more or less hidden behind the outlet.

[young man emu]

Thanks for that.
I been trying to find out for years and all i had to do was ask .
Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

I've been reading a bunch of these older threads to figure out my engines. I'm going to be using the orange one since it's a very good runner. However I see I have the "1942" two hole water pump. My older cmp truck has the original one hole style. I understand that I should use the pulley off of the one holer? Do I also press off the flang with the 4 mounting bolts and put that on the two hole pump shaft?