M38A1 timing...?

[Casey B]

Took the whole thing out and took the shaft out of the distributor housing.I can see where the shaft splits into the top and lower section and have soaked it in penitration oil.
In another post a while ago I think it was Rob whos to mix one half trans fliud with the other half (brake fluid?) to remove rust...thought a bath in this would loosen the shaft if correct? weights are loose but can't turn the top yet...!

[rob love]

Nope, that's not my mix. My mix primarily involves heat. I am too impatient to leave parts soaking, and quite frankly, my success rate with the soaking method is poor.

Take a picture of the assembly, then remove the little springs so you don't wreck them. Now heat up the top part with a propane torch. Not hot enough to discolor the metal, but with a bit of heat, you should have the upper half moving in no time. Once you have it moving (and that little top clip off) work it right off the shaft so you can properly lube everything.

[Casey B]

Got it all apart with heat and have clean the rust off gently with oil adn sone very fine steel wool but not where the shaft is or parts that turn.
Wondering what type of lube to use on it white lithium grease or an engine oil?
I see the oil galleries and grooves for it but wondered about the spinning motion may fling the oil off?
Looked like crusty caked on grease in the grooves and the inner shaft.
So far so good...Casey

[rob love]

Light grease on the shaft will not go anywhere, as long as you apply it sparingly. White lithium should be fine. Then, anytime you have the cap off, place a drop or two of oil on the felt wick under the rotor.

A bit of white lithium on the weight hinges is good too, followed by a drop of oil every time you are into the distributor.

Your next trap will be the fact that you can put the rotor on 180° out onto the shaft. On some of the SMP engines, this can really bugger you up because the oil pumps are offset and will not allow you to turn the shaft 180 and insert it.

Sounds like you will have your Jeep running soon. Winter has finally set in here, so any Jeep driving is now 4 months away (minimum).

[Casey B]

Thanks for the suggestions and yes it was out 180 degrees of course but i found this out before even getting to start it. the distributor would go in any other way so i had to take the upper shaft of and turn it so the flat rotor drive was the right way so the rotor pointed the same way when I took it out.
It runs but still pops from the carb and seems really rich smelling. there is no other setting for the mixture other than the idle mix screw on the side right?
I will have to try the timing. I tried moving the distributor so that it would sound smoother and run a little faster but still some popping just on the initial acceleration. it revs up much quicker now the weights work but the mixture is rich and the popping seems definetily timing.
The weekend is coming and so is the white stuff accorrding to the weather network. Sunday!
thanks again for all advice so far.!
Casey

[rob love]

Timing is pretty important....yes you have to set it. Incorrect timing can cause the popping. So will a cold engine. You have to have it at operating temperature before gunning her. emember that these are not like todays computer regulated cars, where the fuel/air mixture is automatically controlled based on a series of inputs.

Is the hose hooked up from the aircleaner to the carb? Any possibility you have the aircleaner overfilled with oil? This will be the same as having the choke on.

Winter has set in full force here....lots of snow and -20 temps. So I am buggering off to Cuba tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out in a week when I get back.

[Casey B]

Hey Vios Candious campadre!
have agreat trip and i will let you know what happens...thanks again!

Yes hose hooked up not too much oil about 1/8- 1/4 inch in the bottom and was hot but will try and try again...I will not be broken...maybe broke but not broken by a Jeep!
MSE Ops do not walk!LOL

Enjoy you lucky bugger you!