My Blitz's

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Unfortunately Keith they are different to the ones that I have fitted to both vehicles.

Both vehicles have dual input suppressors (two wires).

According to my Chevy maintenance manual circuit diagram one is a suppressor - condensor (dual), and the other is a suppressor - filter. See photo.

Just checked the parts book - the one I have is for "first jobs" which I think means cab 11/12.

[Keith Webb]

You could well be right - I have no way of checking them electronically!

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I will still be doing search for these items. Thanks anyway Keith.

As I have some experience with electronics, I understand that component internals do deteriorate over time so I don't think that these components would be working at the same specification values when they were first made. So I don't think it would be a wise idea to re-use these filter / suppressors as they also have some slight signs of corrosion.

I think that it is important to obtain the correct type as they are an integral part of the battery charging system and overall electrical system, also because of the amperage that is being used in the electical system would cause some spectacular system failures, including damage to the generator.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

The gasket on the glass itself is a standard flat tape like rubber which good sized Auto-Truck glass places should have. If you can not find that I've used the thick rubber tape used to seal underground electrical cable splices.

As to the gasket that goes in the channel of the frame to seal around the out side of the window frame to the body this is also a standard glass shop material sold by the foot or if you are doing a couple of trucks buy a spool box of it think it comes in 50' boxes.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Phil

[hrpearce]

I got all the rubber I needed at rare spairs.

[Grant Bowker]

For carburetors, you will find some people who love any given carb and aome who hate it.
For the Rochester "B", the most common complaint is that at least some of them are vulnerable to the castings warping leading to leakage. I believe there may be some with a more sloped top to the upper casting that are more stable but am not sure of this. The "B" are also not designed for high angle off road work (more likely for economical production), there must be an open topped well within the casting because fuel can spill at high angles.

You will find a variety of opinions expressed at stovebolt.com: http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...s.php/ubb/cfrm
I find the posts on carburetion by "Carbking" to be particularly valuable. He is opinionated (who in the hobby isn't?) but I believe his opinions are based on wider experience of carburetors than most as he does carburetor rebuild/restoration http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ and has a page on the W-1 http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/CarterChevroletW1.htm

[Bob Carriere]

I would trust "CarbKing" as he has been in the business for a long time.

The W-1 is not a bad carburator and it is the original for the 216....... it might not have sufficient CFM for a high reving 235 or 261 but would still run the engine quite well.

I ran a totally rebuilt Rochester "B" and it ran well........ I changed because of th tendency to flow raw gasoline off the top of the carburator at anything over 25 to 30 degrees of hill climb........ apparently the W -1 did not have that nasty habit...... the Rochester B was after all intended for civilian application. For ther ecord my Roch. B did not leak form the top casket cover but leaked from some undetected factory vent hole..... which is part of its design.

I am now running a Carter YF which is flawless ( suggested by Carb King) and do intend to try on a rebuilt Zenith 28 228 formerly used on the GMC 270 cu. in C60x engine.


Bob

[Lynn Eades]

Dont forget to polarise your field coil magnets before you turn on the key.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

Just took a quick look at both the HUP and 3 Ton Chevy CMP parts books and they both show three different types of generator one with a tail bushing, a front ball bearing and no air filter. The next has a tail bushing, a front ball bearing and air filter. The last showing tail ball bearing, a front ball bearing and air filter.

If you want I can post the parts diagram and the detail pages if you don't have them.

I just rebuilt the generator for my HUP which has ball bearings at both ends but strangely it doesn't have the air cleaner. Bearings were good so I cleaned and re-lubricated them and reinstalled. Only other work was new brushes and brush springs. It is now back on the engine running on the test stand.

Cheers Phil