Cmp c15a gs

[Bob Carriere]

HI Joel

Unless the clutch linkage is rubbing on or pressing on something relevant to the fuel or the dizzy I can't figrue that one out.

Let's get back to basic.....

Engine will start

engine will idle in neutral

engine idles smoothly at 450 to 475 rpm......

will engine accelarate and rev up when you manually open up the gas by moving the carb linkage near the carb...... and settle back down when released.

now leaving the truck in neutral will the engine accellarate as above when pressign the gas pedal.

Have you checked the vacuum advance to see if the dizzy twists / moves when you manually accelarate the engine....

do you have a reading from a vacuum gauge...for idle..... how steady is the needle.

any rubble in the exhaust at idle.

Now time to crawl underneath the beast.....

have someone press the clutch from above......

is anything rubbing on the clutch linkage

Now try again........ live dangerously......

engine running.... in neutral..... have someone depress the clutch.....

same.... have someone engage in first gear and slowly release the clutch while looking underneath......

Unless something is binding in the clutch pack.... throwout bearing....

Is the tranny easy to shift in all four gears...... including reverse.....

Wait a minute...... could you clutch linkage be activating the brake pedal when you press down on the clutch pedal.......

Man I wish you were around the corner so I could drop by.....


Check these things out and get back to us...



Keith

Never seen that mod before.....must admit it makes a lot of sense.

Bouncing Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

The problem of the engine stalling when the clutch is pushed in is an intriguing one. First a question what happens if you screw the idle speed stop screw in so that the engine is held at high idle right at the carb? Does the engine stall when the clutch is pushed in?

If it doesn't - then here is a thought, the engine mounts, all of the bolts, and even the holes in the frame wear. (See picture) the pushing in the clutch can move the entire engine transmission just a little bit. If the engines idle speed is not controlled by the set screw at the carb but instead by one of the others adjustments over riding it this can be a problem.

If the engine stalls even with the idle set to high when the clutch is pushed then try checking the really dumb things that could never be the problem like the grounding of the engine to the frame add a clip lead.

Bobs suggestions are a good check list, take a look at each of the suggestions and give us the results if you would, we all love a mystery.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Keith

Never seen that mod before.....must admit it makes a lot of sense.

Bouncing Bob

Bob,
I'm sure I've seen that style cab roof at the Barn, now to figure out which truck it's on. It's a great thing when we have enough cab roofs that we can't remember which one has a specific feature, other than the CRS aspect.

[Joel Culliford]

The Auto Teacher said today that there is a hole in the gas line. I will keep you up to date on whether this is the problem.

Our Principal has decided that when it is running that he wants to drive it. He is Welsh and says that it will feel like home.

Joel

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Joel and all the students, and teachers working on the CMP.

Make sure you let the Principal get the hook of driving CMPs really set, then reel him in. Strange how a project like this will catch peoples interest.

Keep us posted on the mystery stalling problem.

Cheers Phil

[Marc Montgomery]

dont understand issue re canvas or rubber on hatch pieces.. The hatch wood was pretty good, if not used as is, it is excellent for reproducing. ... hatch pads were either rubber or wood not both...and rubber eventually discontinued due to shortages

Your wood substrates were covered by a thin pad of horsehair, with a canvas folded over and tacked into the back. I would use .5 inch foam at most with the canvas pulled tightly to compress it substantially. the pads were not really soft at all. The padding did not extend into the angled ends as this would create thickness preventing proper mating of the two 45 degree ends of the pieces

The canvas was notched on the ends such that when folded on the back there was little overlap which would have created additional thickness and improper fit to the metal. I thought you got one of the original canvas covers with the hatch?

for running issues...did you check there is no air leak between carb base and manifold?

[Joel Culliford]

Marc

I know there was the canvas, to go over the wood...I could not remember if it is fastened by screwing it between the wood and the metal then folded over and then brought back underneath and is it stapled underneath (forgot about the padding). Just looking for some pictures to make sure I'm doing right. Plus there was a picture a while back that shows a rubber seal, that would seal the hatch when the hatch is closed (picture provided). Wondering how to do that or is it even correct.

[Joel Culliford]

Hey everyone

I have a question, well the students have a question. The temperature gauge, which has the wire attached to it, will not fit into the engine, the rebuild one is the wrong size. I should the threaded piece is the wrong size. Is there a way to just replace the threaded piece some how or does the whole wire have to be replaced?

Oh and does anyone have the dimensions for the canvas on the back? Actually does any have the length and dimensions for the bars that go across for the canvas.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[r.morrison]

Gentlemen: To help Joel and the High School out....as I just got off the phone tonight with him.... to clarify a couple of areas!! He has an oil gage, which has a sensor line or tube running to the engine block. The fitting that connects with the engine block, has a ball bearing inside it. AND that fitting does not fit the engine block, because the ball bearing does not fit into the block. This is a rebuilt unit, don't know the details, but any suggestions as to whether it should be returned to the "rebuilder" or we have the wrong fitting on the block.

Secondly....working on some donated parts for this project, however, Joel needs a pattern for the bows for the GS box and a supplier of canvas for the back. The 2 suggestions that I gave him was Brian Asbury and his surplus " to be altered tarps", that might be remade to suit this unit's needs. And the second was the "Great and Mr. Canvas.......Stewart Loy".


So the bottom line here, as far as Bows and Canvas, who in the Niagara Peninsula/ Toronto Area can provide a wee bit of help with patterns and measurements. As far as the oil guage.....your comments please. Kind regards to all ...Robert...

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi guys - I am a bit confused re. this gauge. Is it an electrical one that has a WIRE running to the sensor or is it a mechanical one that has a CONDUIT (TUBE) running to the sensor. Is it a round gauge or one of four that is in an instrument cluster with the half moon speedometer?

Secondly Joel, I will send you a new switch and plate to replace the one you had nicked.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

I think Joel has a "Classic problem" with the temperature gauge.......

We have had the same problem at the barn.

Assuming I understand his temp. guage problem.

On the original 216 it has a large steel fitting that accommodates the steam tube to the front rad and on top a hole where the four sided fitting that holds the brass bubble tigth into the steel fitting and allows a temp reading for the gauge.

Well on rebuilt engines they don't usually come with that old style steel fitting and you have to use a modern brass fitting..... the problem is that modern temp guages do not have the same style tappered fitting and the old bubble and square nut/fitting form the CMP guages will not fit.....and modern after market temp guage will not fit the old style CMP steam fitting...... both Grant and I have had headaches on that one.

My solution was to fit a modern brass fitting into the head of the 261.... then a male/male fitting to a T brass fitting..... on side goes to the steam tube the top part accepts the brass fitting form the modern guage........ BUT what do I do when the origianl dash instrument guages cluster gets connected....?

I do have an original steel steam fitting that will fit the original CMP cab 11 cluster and may have to dismantle my temporary plumbers nightmare....

So my question is........ Joel.... do you have the original large size steel fitting that goes into the head of your modern 235.....?

Would pictures help ........?

Bottom line is if you want to use the original CMP temp guage.... whcih I assume is working and you tested it by dropping your guyage bulb in boiling water to see if the needle moves...... you will need and old fashion steel steam fitting....... it is the only thing that will fit on the old tappered surfaces of the guage brass bulb.......

Bob