T16 restoration starts in earnest

[andrew honychurch]

not much to report in terms of progress. I am awaiting some instruments being sent from the US, and some tin work for the engine covers to be manufactured. I did however, manage to get it charging, or at least, my local expert managed to get it charging. Pretty chuffed with that, a few well aimed tweeks in the control box and hey presto, eureka.

I had noticed that on a couple of the new head studs I put in place I have a little weep up through the nut on the cylinder head. I have put some K Seal in the water and hope that it encourages it to seal. Has anyone else experienced this with the V8 engines?

[RichardT10829]

Andrew my problems with head studs snapping arose as a result that for some absurd reason they drilled the the head studs into the block right into the water jacket ! so with a bit of water pressure voila you get water weeping up through the threads... my advice would be is if the studs can come out without sheering off like mine i would take them out clean the threads and put some thread lock/sealer on the studs and wind them back in, job is a goodun.

i have no doubt there will be other fixes for this issue... perhaps nipping up the stud a bit more will do the trick...i would worry about threads pulling or the stud letting go though.

[ajmac]

A tip from the hot rodders is to fit dowty washers.

[andrew honychurch]

thanks Guys. I had to fit about 15 new studs, and its only on two of these that I am getting a weep. What I need to do is a compression test at some stage just to make sure that I dont have a head gasket problem, but I am sure I dont. Am trying to work out where the water will be coming from. I guess it must be through the thread at the bottom of the stud and all the way up, as long as the head gasket is holding the only place for it to get out is through the top. Having started with two leaking water pumps I now only have one, but it just wont stop. I have bought a couple of NOS pumps but am reluctant to fit it as I am hoping the dripper will stop soon. Its just a bit of a bore as I havent filled it with anti-freeze yet in case I have to drain it down to do the pump and lose all the solution. Sadly my engine does not have the correct taps in the block for draining only plugs so the water will go all over the centre engine bay unless one of you has a cunning plan. I feel the need for some more on track testing

[RichardT10829]

you could drill and tap the fixed plug then perhaps put the brass tap on ? or put a T piece on the lower hose with a take off which you could use as a draining siphon type affair.. the latter would be much easier methinks

[Lynn Eades]

Put some plastic over the rad filler to slow down the flow when you pull the plug.
I have read that leaking from the studs is a common fault on rebuild.
Go to Redsheaders.com, and have a read.
Adding antifreeze will most likely increase the leaks!

[andrew honychurch]

what I really need is a right angle adapter that fits into the block where the current square headed plug is and then a Jeep type drain plug which will direct the water out through the hole in the floor. So anyone with some US pipe threaded taper male ended right angle convertors please let me know. I can get the threads if there is a serious chance of having some. thx

[andrew honychurch]

the weather has cleared a bit here in Kent, and I have taken the opportunity to get cracking on the T16 again. Received my nice new reproduction seats and cushions from Allied Forces Canvas. A superb job will post up some photos soon.

I have decided against remanufacturing my petrol tanks as they are very solid indeed but pretty nasty inside. I have just cut the ends out of one and was planning on sandblasting it and rewelding the ends up. The other tank is much better and I wonder whether anyone can advise on how to clean the inside out so its fit for petrol? I guess when I sandblast the bad one, I cannot paint it so it will have to be left au naturel. Any ideas how to stop it rusting up again? Photos to follow.