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#1
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thanks Richard, yes almost sorted the wiring, well, not really but nothing that stops me from driving her. I was getting very bored so needed to get it out and drive it. Its odd, its not showing a charge on the ammeter, but after driving it around the field when restarting the starter spun over far faster than it has previously so i wonder if the ammeter is bust or wired the wrong way around. Anyway, no point in spoiling the party moaning over little things.
Actually, the worst thing in my view is the stuck and seized links on the tracks as this is making the drive very lumpy so to speak. In the first video you can see the track are seized as I come off the side of my barn. I just hope the free up without breaking a pin! |
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#2
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Quote:
A simple check to see if it is charging is to check the battery voltage before you start up, then with it running at a fast idle, check again, if it is a higher reading, then that can assure you the problem is most possibly in the ammeter or its wiring.
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
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#3
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thats a good idea Richard. I will try that the next time I go for a run with it. thanks
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#4
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Good to see you have made it to the fun part Andrew
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Robert Pearce. |
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#5
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Great to see.
Why dont you oil those frozen links. Once they are moving again you can wash them. A bit of oil might help them free up, which has to be better than a pin breaking. (the brakes will always work better while the tracks are still on)
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
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#6
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well Lynn, I had not thought of that to be honest!! I know that sounds stupid but I have always been told by my father that the tracks should not be oiled, but i suppose that when they are free. Ummh, what does everyone else think? I had been hoping that they will free of their own accord. I think they are better than they were for a brief run.
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#7
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As Lynn says as long as its a short run and you jet wash all the oil out after you could be ok. better than soaking lengths of track in baths of Black strap molasses for a few weeks
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
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#8
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Andrew,
Better to spray the tight links with something like Duck oil, or even diesel, as they will penetrate more. Oil will stick to the outside and attract dirt. My tractor and plant experience has always been not to oil the links.
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
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#9
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well done mate, now you can start to get a little bit back from the old girl, the trouble is once it's running the resto might give way to some fun. it did for me, after going all out on my carrier for a year now it's running things have stopped i haven't even washed the mud of the tracks from beltring yet
![]() all the best rick
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_______________________ 1941 mk1 mortar Carrier 1941 Mk1* Carrier 1942 Mk1* Carrier 1943 T16 Carrier 1945 Mk3 Dingo 1941 Mk3 Covenanter 1941 Mk4 Churchill AVRE (now sold) 1944 Mk6 Cromwell (now sold) 1952 Mk3 Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1953 Mk3 Centurion (breaking) |
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