My Blitz's

[Mike Cecil]

Scott,

Your in luck, I have them both listed:

You wrote:

"C15A - Built in Brisbane. Was disposed of in Qld and was apparently sold to General Motors Holden @ 1946? No specific information of what rear body was fitted."

I have the truck assembled in Brisbane (chassis number is 38444B00075), and taken on charge by Army in Queensland. I don't have a year or place of disposal recorded, but just post war is reasonable, since the disposal SAN number is 5908. As you know, it was sold to GM-H.

To add to what you were told, the truck had a General Service body, so probably the all-steel body with valances (storage lockers) over the rear wheels, given its 1943 model year (so assembled in Australia 1943+).


C60 - Built in Sydney. Was disposed from 1 Base Ordnance Depot in NSW in 1964. No specific information on what rear body was fitted.

To add to your info: It was a 'Truck, 3 ton, Garage', and is a C60L. The reason it was disposed of so late was that it was a specialist body type. Those bodies in serviceable condition were transferred to Studebaker US6 6x6 trucks, and later, to Inter F1 6x6, so your truck was quite possibly disposed of as a cab-chassis.

Regards

Mike C

[Mike K]

this is the only DP Lancashire listed on WW2roll.gov.au

Service Record
Name LANCASHIRE, DOUGLAS PAUL
Service Australian Army
Service Number Q201673
Date of Birth 16 Feb 1925
Place of Birth DALBY, QLD
Date of Enlistment 3 Apr 1943
Locality on Enlistment REDCLIFFE, QLD
Place of Enlistment REDCLIFFE, QLD
Next of Kin LANCASHIRE, SAMUEL
Date of Discharge 16 Aug 1944
Rank Private
Posting at Discharge 2 BATTALION VOLUNTEER DEFENCE CORPS (QLD)

He may have been conscripted into the AMF after leaving the VDC .... he would have been 18 by then. That's if its the same person who owned that drivers handbook.

[Keith Webb]

They do turn up from time to time and are an amalgam of the individual Canadian ones. Surprising there aren't more of them around. The Ford one was the same format. The only Canadian handbooks here are the F15 because we imported numbers of them in their Canadian configuration.

As to your chassis in your next post, better by far to find a good one rather than spend a lot of time and effort on a bad one.

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Just recieved a driver's handbook for Chevrolet that I won on ebay. I haven't seen many of these books around so I'm guessing that they are hard to come by.

I have seen many Ford driver's manuals, but not many for the Chevrolets.

These are an invaluable source of information which covers details that are not covered by the standard maintainence manual.

The manual was issued to - Driver DP Lancashire, 2nd Batt / 3rd AATB.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Scott - looking at what you have, you need help. With your bits and pieces $350 will get you a fully operational panel. Another $230 gets you a working temperature gauge built by an instrument technician.

Bob

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I have removed two water pumps from two of the engines that I have. The exterior of the pumps is ok, but the internal components are pretty well rusted. Have tried to remove the backplate of the pumps without success as the screws are very tight, any ideas as to remove these seized screws?

-

You might try a impact driver . You can buy them anywhere . Its a kit with 3 different bits eg, phillips head and normal type . You place the driver onto the stuck screw and hit it with a hammer , the twisting action will loosen the screw. Make sure the slot in the screw head is clean . A little heat will help loosen it as well.

I've had varying success with 216 rebuild kits .... some of them come with low quality bearings that virtually fall apart as you press them in. The older NOS kits tend to have good bearings but beware as the lube inside the old NOS bearing may have dried up and it wont last long in service. You normally have to reface the surface where the carbon seal runs as it is usually pitted .

hope that helps .

[Lynn Eades]

Some options;
Use an impact driver. Give the head of the screws a hit with a flat faced punch, (square on)having carefully supported the casting at the other end of the screw. This is to jar it free. (do this first) Judiciously use a blunt cold chisel to chase the screw head in an anticlockwise direction. (one well judged blow)
Carefully heat the screws and let them cool. If that doesn"t free them, heat them again, and quench them with water.
One or a combination of the above should free them.

[Bob Carriere]

In similar circumstances....... we use the oxy-acet to heat up the casting to a pale cherry red...... than with a handy dandy impact screw driver start impacting the screw head. The screws can be hard rusted to the point of shearing the flat end of the screw dirver attachements..... but they sell spares.

As mentioned if it does not work at first quench with water....let it sit.... repeat heat process.

Prefer it to drilling heads off 10 to 1.

Another way would be to grind some clean shiny meatl on the screw head and weld a 3/8 nut on the head using the mig welder....... let the nut glow red....wait for the heat to bleed into the casting..... when parlty cool torque gently back and forth until loose.... if nut breaks off weld another one.....

Good luck.

Bob

[Grant Bowker]

The screws holding the back plates onto the pump body are usually staked in place against vibration by using a punch to drive some of the metal from the plate into the slot in the screw from the edge. If they overdid it this could be adding to your trouble. Heat should soften this as well. They might have used loctite or similar against vibration - heat tends to break that bond too.
I can't think of anything in the top corners of a Chev water pump that should be hurt by judiciously applied heat. Don't go so crazy with the torch that you melt the casting but you should be quite safe short of that.
You may be able to get enough heat from a propane torch as used for soldering domestic water pipe fittings but oxy-acetylene lets you put in more BTU/min and keep the heat more where you want it instead of spread so far through the whole casting (and perhaps cooking the lubricant in the bearing), possibly actually using less heat than the lower rate torch.