2011 at the Hammond Barn

[RHClarke]

The long weekend in Canada is about to end. The weather in the Ottawa area was unsettled with no shortage of rain. Saturday was fantastic but hot by our standards: 31oC by 1100 hrs. Sunday had its moments and today was quite overcast. However; the weather did not keep the boys from the barn (well, except for Bob, who spent Saturday and Sunday either on a photography or pornography course - not sure which...).

I joined Grant for CMP work on Saturday. He had the barn to himself on Sunday, and today Bob joined us. After catching up on the news of the CMP world, we got down to brass tacks. Grant's focus has been on shimming his steering and working on his brakelines. Bob played with his support rod while I played with my HUP's rear sliding windows.

Bob reworked his support rod and it now looks ready for installation. Will it fit? Time will tell. Grant tested his brake system today and apart from two small leaks which were quickly sorted out, all looks goods. Next step - engine! It is great to see the progress on Grant's truck frame.

The HUP rear window frames - These are interesting items. Each frame with glass weighs in at about 30 pounds. There is one fixed pane and one sliding pane of glass with a small tab handle to make opening and closing easier. The metal frame has a flange that rests against the skin of the HUP. It has 16 fine thread, pan head, slotted machine screws. The top six screws screw into a U shaped metal channel that is welded to the top inside of the window opening. There are six screws on the bottom flange and two on each side flange. As I had replaced all of the sheet metal from the cab rearward, new holes had to be drilled and tapped for both window frames. This turned out to be a fairly easy task, except for one screw that wants to go in on an angle.

U Channels - The U channels had moved somewhat due to rust wedging, so I cut them out, ground off the rust and repainted them. Once the paint was dry the channel was loosely screwed to the top flange. The window frame was reinserted into the opening and the side and lower flange screws were inserted drawing the frame nice and snug to the outside metal. The next step was to reweld the U channels back into place. Once done the top flange screws were tightened. A quick blast of black paint over the screw heads, and that task was done.

Weatherproofing - The original windows had a thin piece of rubberized material lining the opening. While it did manage to reduce vibration, its design tended to trap moisture which in turn caused rust to build up. The restoration of the window frame has already been covered somewhere in this Hammond Barn thread, so I won't bore you with the details. Instead of using the rubber, the window opening and the corresponding surfaces on the window frame were given a coating of black silicone sealant and a good sized bead of the same. The small spaces between the window frame and the body were also given a silicone treatment. Short of total submergence, that should keep the moisture out.

The window war is by no means complete. I have to reattach a fully assembled window frame on the driver's side and re-assemble the pax side and side door window frames. The hold up is finding the channel for the sliding glass. I know I have a good length of it hiding somewhere in the barn. The trick is to find it. What will probably happen is I will buy another length from our friend John G and magically, the other piece will show up.

Next Project - Once the door mounted windows are completed the next project is to find a solution to the rear door dilemma. The rear door has puzzled us all. I am guessing that there were special hinges for the rear door - I don't know for sure as my HUP did not have the OEM hinges when I go it. Instead, three large barn hinges were gorilla welded to the door and sheet metal. They worked but looked like hell.

The hinges that I have fit the original openings in the door and in the frame. Once attached they do not afford enough clearance for the door to close. The door binds where the door frame meets the frame of the opening on the hinge side. We figure that we need at least another 1/4 inch of clearance in order for the door to close properly.

Since HUP rear door hinges are as rare as rocking horse dirt, I am tempted to improvise. My solution would be to take the existing hinges and modify them. Once taken apart, I plan to cut down the body side hinge arm and then weld it to 1/4 inch plate that will fit into the frame opening. The plate will provide the needed off-set and in theory the door should shut without binding. Bob is still thinking about the problem. Any other approaches?

This sort of challenge is what keeps us coming back to the barn as much as possible.

Photos
1 - Inside of the HUP - the freshly tack welded U channel is on top of the window frame. The screw holes in the top of the window frame are for the metal bar that holds on the black out curtains.
2 - The other side window - the tab above the windows is one of the mounts for the horizontal rifle rack.
3 - The installed window and author self-portrait.
4 - HUP starting to look a little more complete.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

Concerning the rear door hinges on the HUP, this week I'll be working on refitting the doors on my HUP this week and will take a real close look at the fit issues and the profiles of the hinges. I did succeed in finding a spare set that look to be a good match though they are drilled for a different bolt pattern.

As I think has been already discussed putting in new bushings and pins is the first step to get rid of the play in the hinge.

I'll check my disassembly photos but I'm pretty sure that my rear hinges had to be shimmed with wedge when I restored the truck the first time 30 years ago.

Really a shame that Mac Auto is 350 miles from you and 400 miles from me, there are a whole bunch of parts I'd like to take out there and see if they are a match for stuff they have on the shelf. Take a look the Model A hinge sets.

Cheers Phil

[RHClarke]

Hi Phil,

Thanks for refreshing my memory. I do recall Mac Auto having something like our rear door hinges. As well, I remember either a 38 or 39 Buick having the same type. I would like to get a close look at a volkswagon front door hinge set to get a measurement. I know that the hole patterns do not match, but if the two arms fit then that becomes a welding and drilling exercise. Ebay has some Ford hinges that look useable http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50-51...item1c1dc97e77

I am looking forward to hearing about your rear door hinges. If you can measure them and the side door hinge sets to see if there are any differences, that would be most appreciated.

[RHClarke]

Saturday morning was dedicated to restocking Bob's hardwood supply for this coming fall and winter. Bob heats his home with a wood burning furnace. This year he decided to take advantage of a good deal for cut and split hardwood offered by a local supplier.

We kicked off the morning with a maintenance check of the 3/4 ton SMP trailer. The tire pressure, chains, pintle and box were in good condition, so we hooked it up to Bob's Ford truck and headed out to pick up the first of three loads. After unloading the first load Bob noted that one wheel rim was hot to the touch. We dragged the trailer back to the barn where Bob and Grant adjusted the cams. The rest of the morning was uneventful, except for the spectacular coincidence of finding a glove on the side of the road that exactly matched the glove Bob found (left) resting on top of the wood when we were dumping load number two.

We unloaded all three loads beside Bob's garage. After the last load we headed off to BoBoul for some breakfast. Bob was in a grateful mood so he picked up the tab for Grant and I. Bob decided to pick up the rest of his wood on Sunday, so the rest of the afternoon was spent on CMP related projects.

Photos:
1 - A sign of the times...fall is pending
2 - Inspection
3 - Adjustment
4 - The last load
5 - Next step - stacking in the garage

[RHClarke]

Another milestone was reached at the barn on Saturday. Grant mounted his engine into the frame of his truck. The hold up was a broken off bolt in the block of his engine. After five attempts Bob managed to weld a nut onto the broken bolt and out it came.

Grant then used the overhead gantry to coax the engine into place. Grant was then heard to say "Now, it looks like a truck."

Photos:

1 - The approach
2 - The expectant Groom
3 - Bob demonstrating confidence in his chainfall and gantry
4 - Touchdown - a match made in Hammond
5 - Looking more and more "like a truck".

[RHClarke]

After a little investigation online, I learned that 1966-1977 Ford Bronco door hinges "might" be the solution to my rear door hinge issue. The Bronco hinges are a little longer and the gap between the "arched" arm and the flat arm is 13/16". This may solve the binding problem. There is a set of Bronco hinges offered on EBay that I will be bidding on in the near future. The price for a new repro set is about $200.00. The EBay hinges while well-used are much cheaper (unless a bid war happens). I hope to find out if they do indeed fit. I am also trying to get the dimensions for 1960's VW Beetle door hinges (two flat arms).

The next issue was to find a replacement door guide and latch to weld onto the back door frame. Fortunately, the Hammond Barn has an extensive supply of spare parts. After a quick jaunt to the wagon lines behind the barn, Bob and I found the parts. We dragged the lower rear cab frame/sheet metal that we picked up in Montreal last winter back to the barn for some surgery.

After removing the door frame uprights, I cut out he cab supports for future use. Bob removed the latch with some heat treatment. The door guide was spot welded into place so the weld was drilled out and the guide came off with very little fight. A quick sand blast and a spray of black paint later, they were hung to dry for future use.

As usual, the day passed all too quickly and I had to head back home for domestic duties. Helping to keep Bob and Joyce comfy during the winter helps Grant and I “pay the rent” for the privilege of keeping our trucks and stuff at the barn. All in all, it was another great day at the barn.

Photos:
1 - The "infamous" HUP side/rear door hinges (repro Ford Bronco hinge)
2 - HUP rear door frame devoid of door guide and latch
3 - Donor lower rear cab frame
4 - Salvaged pieces for future use.

[Bob Carriere]

First of all thanks for the hand for moving the firewood....really appreciate the help.... I had planned two weekends to get it done with you guys it was done in 1 1/2 days.

Considering the amount of wood we moved..... the engine, bell housing, clutch and tranny installed..... cleaned out the garage.......and the darn brake job I had to do on the wife's Hyundai ..... not a bad weekend. Sure glad I had a Goberment job to go to this morning to rest !!!!!

On the hinges.... my experienced bellied up to the counter at Mac was the same as any other parts store...... they only know how to punch in the computer part number and will not take a part in the back room to check it out....... in fact they get very impatient if you have them to call out 5 or six parts numbers to see which one fits.

On the Bronco hinges ..... after degreasing myself Sunday late after noon, my wife dragged me to Rockland for Hot Rod show infront of Boston Pizza.... she wanted to take pictures...... well there was a Bronco guy out there with an early 66- 67 model and you might be able to contact him for actual eye comparaison....try [number PM'ed] ...... tell him you need his help for hinges.
That number is probably Rockland or back roads towards St Pascal Baylon...
Good Luck.

Now to see if we can get that newly installed 261 to fire up.....

Bob

[Stuart Fedak]

Originally Posted by RHClarke

After unloading the first load Bob noted that one wheel rim was hot to the touch. We dragged the trailer back to the barn where Bob and Grant adjusted the cams.

I have made it a practice to touch the wheel rims/hub centre on both my Iltis and M101 CDN2 trailer when using them first time in the spring, and if they have been sitting for a while. This spring I had to replace the hand brake cables on the Iltis, as they were seized up over the winter. The previous year I was able to get them freed up, and working for the summer, but this year, I was not able to get them working. I changed the bearings on my M101 CDN2 trailer this summer, and also checked for heating, to make sure the bearings were not too tight.

A simple check, that can prevent all sorts of trouble and repairs.

Cheers!
Stuart