Paint codes and suppliers?

[Bob Carriere]

The RAPCO paint and De Bella are both old fashion paint used with a reducer and air dried...... much easier to re-apply a second coat. I have used it on small part using regular sandable red primer from CTC.

Now primer wise I have a particular process.

I sandblast everything and spray with a degreaser...air/sun dry...... spray with a metal prep solution which is diluted phosphoric acid....etches the metal leaves a slight gray dust finish. If the solution is too strong the dust finished is removed with a clean new 3M pad.

The I give it usually two coats of POR 15 coating.... one gray one black.... 2 to 3 days to cure properly. The POR finish is so hard and so slick paint will not usually stick or adhere to it. I then have two choice.... use a self etching primer which is sprayed on..... very thin coat light grey...or for pitted surfaces POR sells a baby blue polymer coating which is fairly thick and is self levelling..... it can be sanded and a second coat applied to fill pits even better. Once fully cured 24+ hours I can spray two coats of OD flat.....usually a first coat built up by two or three passes. Flat paint flashes very fast in the sun on warm metal........ wait 30 to 40 minutes and give it a final wet coat of the OD flat.

Once dried you have a very though surface. How though..?

I did the cast steel axle housing both front and back with that process.

When re-assembling the axles using home made axle stands that are about 40 inches tall..... the axle tubes were resting on two 1 inch wide U shape saddles ..one at each end. Well over the weeks we twisted the axles one way then the other way as we assembled all the parts.... we actually wore out the OD paint and the primer..... but the grey POR paint was visible and not damaged..... we reprimed and repainted.....

POR is classified as a "coating" not a paint. In layman's term it is crazy glue with a pigment...... it sets with humidity...... you cannot paint from the can has it will harden on you like bad Viagra...... I usually pour enough for a job in a plastic coffee cup..... caution... it will melt the cup.... I know. I only spray paint outside with a mask, gloves, faceshield and clean underwear.

If spilled on your skin.... you are good for at least a week before some of the skin actually falls off.......

if the fumes are ingested while painting it will hardened in your lungs with humidity and you will wheeze until you croak..... so outside with a breeze.... with a mask.....

I live in a rural area...... all my neighbours have died.

All joking aside it is a tremendous product that can be used if you are careful... we usually paint brush the stuff.... and throw the brush after as it is not worth cleaning.

I am too old to be shot in the back by a jealous husband and I never smoked so I have to die of something.

Hope I have not scared you.......

Bob

[Casey B]

Not at all i have used the POR system for My Chevelle running gear as well as Powder coating...both really wear well and cost alot too..LOL I will probaly use her till i put her to sleep at the Museum for the winter then take her out of hibernation and then try to take her appart for the body and paint...i really am not into the toatl pristine looking jeep but want her to look used but not beaten...LOL She needs a little TLC now then some new paint and a side bracket for the .30cal pass. side! reading this Dan...hint hint?

[rob love]

The side mounted GPMG swingarm was made for the Cdn2 and 3 Jeeps. The Jeeps of the 50s era would have had the pedestal mount in the rear (although not common).

[Casey B]

Yes but Alas Mine had one mounted there as the holes match the 67 I have yep both have the holes with the slant to them...and a friend has the mount as well..not one but two right Dan..hint hint? LOL maybe he'll read this and want to make some quick money. I did see while i was under it the mounting plate for the pedisatl mounted MG right in the middle of the floor slightly aft of the seat backs. Hmmm got me thinking!

[Casey B]

Okay decided to go with the Rapco people down south and saw the paint i need for the M38 i was thinking of going with the black Zinc Oxide primer as i thaought easier to cover with the OD green finish as oppossed to the Grey Zinc Oxide or red Oxide...any thoughts on this that may make me change my mind before ordering...? thanks Casey soon to be Headcase...LOL

[Bob Carriere]

I would go wtih grey as it is easier to see if you have proper coverage.....even on the second wet coat.... you will probably find some areas you though was covered but was only misted over. Yes scratches will show easier...... but you can and will toouch up anyways..... my least favorite would beblack oxide for the same contrasting reason....

Don't forget to mix paint very well.......

Bob

[Casey B]

Thanks Bob Good point about the respray and coverage...LOL Not worried about scratches..LOL rust now there's a worry LOL we get wet out this way rain..and then some more roain...LOL Thanks again for the advice Casey