53 M38A1 Brake cylinders

[peter simundson]

Anyone have the current Wagner (or other) stock number for front and rear
brake cylinders for 1953 M38 A1.

I know I've got it but cant find it.

Thanks

Peter Simundson.

[Michael Greeley]

i'll look for you peter in my parts box of brake stuff

[Mike Baker]

Should be the same as my '67...

Raybestos WC16534 and WC16535, but I forget which is front and which is rear.

Mike

[rob love]

WC16534 is the front, and WC16535 is the rear. Rockauto.com in the US is always a good online source for part numbers like these along with great prices to boot. They have the cylinders for $17 to $20, and the master cylinder for just $45.

[peter simundson]

....For your assistance. I don't suppose anyone has a number for the master cylinder???


Peter S

[rob love]

Raybestos p/n MC2796. Rock auto lists about 5 others ranging from $37 to $57 US.

[Casey B]

Originally Posted by rob love

Raybestos p/n MC2796. Rock auto lists about 5 others ranging from $37 to $57 US.

Quick question has anyone ever felt that the single chambered piston is inadequate for the braking system and felt the need to change to the dual brake master cylinders conversions offered? i would never want to to disuade anyone from changing something that had to do with safety ...but if it's good and reliable why change it. Mine is rotted out but figured a kit would work to rebuild or replce for the trouble. It's at this point where you ask is it necessary? Any thoughts?

[rob love]

Do it right the first time with all new cylinders and master, along with flex lines, and you should be good for at least a decade. For the price of brand new components these days, why would one bother to rebuild?

My experience is that you have 7 to 10 trouble free years with new, and 3-5 with rebuilt.

Again using Rock auto for an example, you can have the master cylinder and four wheel cylinders all brand new for only $120 plus some minor shipping to the border. Add the four flex lines and the S lines and you will be around the $200 mark. Then you can almost forget about the brake hydraulic system until sometime around 2020.

Of course, this may sound cheap, but of course you are also possibly looking at shoes, maybe drums, for sure wheel seals, and possibly a couple bearings. Don't forget to repack the rear bearings and replace both the inner and outer seal on each side. Chainging the outer only will do nothing. Oh yeah, while you have the front brakes off you may as well do those neglected kingpin bearings: expect to replace all four. The fun just keeps on going and going.

[Casey B]

I'll assume the flex lines you mean are the ones' at each wheel? Yes! I'll change those out and flush the lines as well... just wondered if you think moving to a dual chamber is applicable here?
Hey thanks thus far for the help One down and almost striped of decent parts and the 53 waiting for the transplants!

[rob love]

There are four flex lines: one from the frame to the rear axle, one from the frame to the front axle, and two which run from the axle tube to the knuckles. Changing all four would be a good thing.

The little S shaped lines at each front wheel cylinder will also be seized, and they are a bugger to make. You might as well order two of those too. There is a way to undo them without damaging them, but it is sketchy at best so I won't divulge it.
Have a look at your regular steel lines as well. If they are showing signs of anything more than minor surface rust, change them too. For those you can buy those premade lengths of tubing at Cdn tire andcut and re-flare one end to make it the right length. Make sure you double flare the line: single flare will not do on a brake line.

[Casey B]

Hey thanks Rob
Can I pick your brain a little more...? You wouldn't happen to have the part no.s for the flex lines would you...I copied the one's for the wheel cylinders as well as the master from the previous post.

Also my 53's fuel tank is a little beat inside and there is a 52 that is coated that i can possibly by to install. Not sure what the coating prosees costs but i am sure it isn't cheap. So My question is...I have a 67 with a near new looking (insideanyway) tank and thought that will plop right in But is it correct as the tank is not rounded more square and the seams are not folded welded square...? I am not really a purist but I also don't need the flack...hahaha from the others If you have an idea what does a decent tank go for now days...? Thanks Rob enjoy the day Casey

[peter simundson]

...is a perfect fit. This is one of the batch the Army had made when they couldn't
source originals. I've used them on 53's.
I'm having a tank repaired now and I'm up to $300. The liner is $100 alone.
Gas tanks are a pain in the butt.
The MD Juan tank is $400 but they had many problems with them. After many complaints the second lot is better but not perfect.

Sorry if I butted in Rob. I couldn't resist.

Peter Simundson

[rob love]

Not at all Peter, certainly I am not the only guy who knows a little about Jeeps on this forum.

As Peter mentions, the welded tanks were replacements for the Cdn army. The only real shortcoming I found with them was that the gas caps would not fit without some modification.

Most rad shops will clean out the insides of your tank, then line it with a compound (POR15 if I recall) for around $100. The old compounds did not like alcohol, but with today's fuel, they must have worked around that.

Go to Rockauto.com, click on the big red button, go to the jeep selection, go to 1955, then CJ5 and finally brake hoses. All the wagner numbers are there, along with others. There are also the S lines by onix-ada.

[Casey B]

Awsome thanks guys got it apart already and ready to go while it is dry here after that well grey days forever till spring!

[Casey B]

Originally Posted by rob love

Go to Rockauto.com, click on the big red button, go to the jeep selection, go to 1955, then CJ5 and finally brake hoses. All the wagner numbers are there, along with others. There are also the S lines by onix-ada.

Sorry to be pain in the big red Button but on rock auto's sight they do have a listing for the 1953 M38A1 just wondered if there was any difference to the 55 you said to go to was it a typo or did you mean for us to use 1955 instaed?

Parts seem to be the same but since i am new to this really do not want to order and then send back...When you have the time could you confirm...? You are right they are the best priced out there.
Thanks again Casey

[rob love]

Not sure how you found a m38a1 tab because i have not. But if you have then go with that.

[Casey B]

Yes you are correct Rob it was on another site comparing prices... Rock auto there is a 1953 tab for CJ3...or stick the 1955 CJ5?

I'd like to get all the stuff at once LOL i hope...some of my lines are in really good shape little rust outside but still srtong...Clean them out or wash out the tubes with alcohol rubbing or methyle hydrate...? next the wheel cylinders and shoes...These sure look like the english stuff i worked on adjust the same way as well...

Oh and my frineds said they don't mind delivering your junk to your house LOL they do not have green disease!

[rob love]

Go with the 55 CJ5. If you are ordering brakeshoes you had best look at yours first. It was possible to have the shoes with the round mounting holes on the bottom, or else the later style (correct for the A1s) where the bottoms were on more of a fixed anchor. Compare what you have with the pictures on rock auto's listings.

Good news about the treasure delivery. That will be one more piece of the puzzle.

[chris vickery]

I just did all the brakes on my 1970CDN3. Complete new front to back. The only other mod which I highly recommend is the use of silicone brake fluid. Since my entire sytem is new, I just flushed the lines with alcohol to ensure they were clean and used racing type fluid. It has a high operating temp and the main advantage is that silicone does not attract water and does inhibit rust, something to consider especially for a vehicle that sits for extended periods of time.

[Casey B]

Thanks Rob and Chris great tips for me to use as the parts are on their way to me as I speak! Shouldn't be long now and I may still get some flys in my teeth!

[Bob Carriere]

Ethyl....rubbing alcool is superior for mixing with and removing water from brakelines......Methyl will not work as well..... of course Ethyl is about 4 times more expensive.... and the drugstore version has chemicals added that will make you sick as a dog.......

Or you can always use Quebec Alcool at 94% ... in which case you will want to suck the lines clean instead of blowing them with a compressor and I promise you will get a "Kick" out of the experience.....

what a hobby ....?

Bob

[Casey B]

[Casey B]

Under control now LOL!