Paint codes and suppliers?

[Casey B]

yes i think I would be interested I wonder if you can use the codes that others have sent to me to match or will I need a sample of this colour? 997A Olive Drab 24087 I may have a part that is in good paint condition for a match...? Let you know and do let me know...thanks so much Robert

[rob love]

I'll vouch for buying the paint from Rapco, and having it shipped to a border parcel place. I think by the time I got my 8 gallons in (4 primer and 4 of the green) it worked out to $38 a gallon. Best part is the paint is compatible with the primer, and it is fresh.

Recommended reducer to spray is Xylene which can usually be found at the household paint stores like color your world. If you try to use regular thinners, it will just curdle up and clog your gun.

[Casey B]

How many gallons do youthink my M38A1 will take one of each...hopfully only...? maybe two of each...? to do the whole thing if I was to take the tub off and sand blast etc...?

[Bob Carriere]

2 gallons...... you do not want to be just one cup short!!!!!

Let me explain...... unless you have a professional paint shop and can have all your parts ready at once..... and the tub on a rotisserie....

You will be loading your gun more than once and some waste can be expected...left over in gun.... in can..... washing out...etc.....

You will probably want to give a second coat to everything particualrly the underneath....

...and you will want some left over for touch ups..... best kept in glass canning jars that you can select for size so as to have a minimum of air inside. Use a section of plastic sandwich bag on the jar so the canning ring will not stick....... don't let you wife know you are using her spare canning jars.

Bob C.

[Casey B]

Thanks Bob question does it use a curing agent that you have to add to it then paint like an epoxy or is it reduce and paint dry?
Also do you know if it can be used with any red oxide primer? or is it only compatible with it's own priming system? I am speaking of the Repco paint system?

Thanks Casey

[Bob Carriere]

The RAPCO paint and De Bella are both old fashion paint used with a reducer and air dried...... much easier to re-apply a second coat. I have used it on small part using regular sandable red primer from CTC.

Now primer wise I have a particular process.

I sandblast everything and spray with a degreaser...air/sun dry...... spray with a metal prep solution which is diluted phosphoric acid....etches the metal leaves a slight gray dust finish. If the solution is too strong the dust finished is removed with a clean new 3M pad.

The I give it usually two coats of POR 15 coating.... one gray one black.... 2 to 3 days to cure properly. The POR finish is so hard and so slick paint will not usually stick or adhere to it. I then have two choice.... use a self etching primer which is sprayed on..... very thin coat light grey...or for pitted surfaces POR sells a baby blue polymer coating which is fairly thick and is self levelling..... it can be sanded and a second coat applied to fill pits even better. Once fully cured 24+ hours I can spray two coats of OD flat.....usually a first coat built up by two or three passes. Flat paint flashes very fast in the sun on warm metal........ wait 30 to 40 minutes and give it a final wet coat of the OD flat.

Once dried you have a very though surface. How though..?

I did the cast steel axle housing both front and back with that process.

When re-assembling the axles using home made axle stands that are about 40 inches tall..... the axle tubes were resting on two 1 inch wide U shape saddles ..one at each end. Well over the weeks we twisted the axles one way then the other way as we assembled all the parts.... we actually wore out the OD paint and the primer..... but the grey POR paint was visible and not damaged..... we reprimed and repainted.....

POR is classified as a "coating" not a paint. In layman's term it is crazy glue with a pigment...... it sets with humidity...... you cannot paint from the can has it will harden on you like bad Viagra...... I usually pour enough for a job in a plastic coffee cup..... caution... it will melt the cup.... I know. I only spray paint outside with a mask, gloves, faceshield and clean underwear.

If spilled on your skin.... you are good for at least a week before some of the skin actually falls off.......

if the fumes are ingested while painting it will hardened in your lungs with humidity and you will wheeze until you croak..... so outside with a breeze.... with a mask.....

I live in a rural area...... all my neighbours have died.

All joking aside it is a tremendous product that can be used if you are careful... we usually paint brush the stuff.... and throw the brush after as it is not worth cleaning.

I am too old to be shot in the back by a jealous husband and I never smoked so I have to die of something.

Hope I have not scared you.......

Bob

[Casey B]

Not at all i have used the POR system for My Chevelle running gear as well as Powder coating...both really wear well and cost alot too..LOL I will probaly use her till i put her to sleep at the Museum for the winter then take her out of hibernation and then try to take her appart for the body and paint...i really am not into the toatl pristine looking jeep but want her to look used but not beaten...LOL She needs a little TLC now then some new paint and a side bracket for the .30cal pass. side! reading this Dan...hint hint?