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#1
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Hi Lynn, Ryan and everyone else. You are right that there's not many left which is the reason i like to save them. I have the odd one that is just too far gone but I get self satisfaction after I have finished something. I can't say that how I construct or repair anything is the perfect or even the correct way, but it works for me with what limited knowledge I have. Every machine is different as far as restoration. The principal of repair is the same, just the technique varies with equipment and skill levels and mine are cut, shut and weld. Knowing the layout and componentry of these machines is a big help. I don't need to reference much on these particular carriers any more. I can say to anyone who is about to restore one and that is put your head down, arse up and just do it. The more you look at rust it won't get any better. If anyone wants any close up particular pics please let me know.
On that note, it's saturday morning, my wife's home to look after the kids so i'm off to the shed and try and knock this carrier off today. Pics tonight. Colin.
Last edited by colin jones; 30-07-11 at 00:51. Reason: spelling |
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#2
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Hi Colin, I have read that front armour is 10mm thick, just had a measure up of my front armour on my LP2 and without paint/rust got a measurement of 11.65mm. my question is all of your patches you have put in all look faultless, do you have a step in one side that I cant see or are you able to get new steel of the correct thickness?
your posts are an awesome motivator, cheers Lew |
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#3
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Hi Lew, actualy it's 1/2" thick and thats what Ive used. I dont have a step unless there's a bit of variation in which case I feather gring it where I can.
Colin. |
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#4
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Had to stop a bit early today as I have a date at the pub
I still got done what I thought I would.
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#5
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And this too!
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#6
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I'll finish the rest of the welding tomorrow.
Shower time ![]() Colin. |
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#7
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Great work Colin,
What I would do for a workshop like that!
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