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As Captain Mainwaring would say..............ahhh, I was wondering who'd be first to spot that.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#2
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Hey guys - I am not trying to impose any colours on anybody. I just use KG3 as it is correct for the era and my local Protec has the formula. As for your panel it makes my life more simple. I will finish it off with several coats of good primer and leave the instruments out so it is easy for you to final coat it.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
#3
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Thanks very much, I appreciate that. Getting income tax done on Thursday, so will be cashed up in coming week or two.
I didn't intend any offence or disrespect with the reply to your post. I don't suppose you have a copy of the KG3 formula for Protec you can send me?? If I can get a satisfactory undertaking from the paint shop staff, or find an alternative shop in the next town (40min from my place) I might rethink the decision if ongoing supplies will be consistently available & accurate in tint. Still like the idea of being able to take a can off the shelf and use without mucking around. I always try to plan ahead and head off potential problems where possible. The local paint shop (only one in town with auto paint) don't give me good vibes as to their skill/ability or desire to assist. I was quite suprised how easy the Protec was to apply. Apparently this is one of it's known benefits. Last time I painted a vehicle, it was in a now defunct (I have been told) paint brand called Spies Hecker. Protec sprayed well, with good buildup and quick coverage. I contacted Protec customer service today and will try flattening base at 10-15% next time. Bad dental pain tonight. Had 1x extraction at 1730hrs & anaestetic now worn off. I left my Tramal pain tablets at the office too. I wonder if the scarf with hot water bottle treatment, as seen in old movies, really works. Ask me tomorrow. Don't forget to floss, people.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#4
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Hi Tony - a bit of research shows that
Painters Pit Stop Gympie 50 Duke Street Gympie, 4570 Phone: (07) 5482 9011 is an outlet/distributor for Protec Paints. I cannot see why Protec here, Head Office, could not forward the formula to them. If you like make some enquiries with them and we'll see what we can do. There are several Protec outlets in Qld and are easy to find with Google. You would be able to identify who is close to you. If it is too hard I could always get it made up here and send to you. I always use a satin finish and they do all the flattening. Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
#5
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Hey Tony,
just clicked why shed green ..... no worries with the overspray ! I think the problems with the some of the Automotive paint is that its designed to be high gloss shine, my local suppplier recommended with the gloss enamel I use to mix 1lt paint to 20% flattener to 20% thinners based on 3 coats and final coat can be 25%... his spec sheets say up to 50% flattener but he said this is in the borderline with it turning out milky. Going to spray a door first and judge the results but mine is not an original Army replica ans the Fire Brigade demilitarised her so i'm restoring as a 2nd life timber truck type. Bob is right that if you want army khaki get the right paint so you know you get the shade and finish you want as there is so many out there and plenty of head scratching material ! Got the brackets off the Bumper and the curve is pretty even, so just going to attempt to correct the twist and see how I go from there, heatwise as i dont have acetylene kit is to run a bead of weld on inside of bumper on a line where i need to apply pressure to bend her back to true whilst the weld area is still red hot, will let you know how I go but i have used this before on steel bumpers and it has worked well |
#6
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One thing I've learned in painting flat OD is to use a base coat over the primer that is full gloss with hardener, then paint the top coat with with the flattener reason being the flattener is basically like (or is) chalk which will let some moisture enter the paint and get down to the primer and then to the metal. Putting down a full gloss coat provides a good moisture barrier.
From playing around in the past I learned that about 20% flattener matches the original flatness pretty well particularly if you spray the top coat on the dry side, another reason for a good gloss coat as the first coat. For those of us who don’t paint all the time another tip is practice, paint all the non critical stuff first like the underside of the body or the floor of the cargo bead, get your technique down than tackle the stuff that every one will see. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#7
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Thanks for the info on flat base. Your statements regarding gloss coats prior to use of base is absolutely spot on! Flat base & primer itself (acrylic worst of all) are suscepatible to moisture. I have only used flat base for trim or dash components in the past, and that was way back in the past.
I emailed Protec head office last night, and presently awaiting reply regarding having them supply paint mixed with base in it. As I posted earlier, the local paint shop were the ones who advised on initial base mixing ratio, and with that in mind they seem to be unfamiliar with the product. Should know more tonight. T
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 26-07-11 at 22:50. Reason: made a spelink mistook |
#8
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Second email was simply "kind regards" & the authors signature, with three attachments, each containing the MSDS for the individual products. Since receiving this email, I have read & re-read my first contact asking if they held the formula for Khaki Green 3 in satin, and asking of they could supply it ready for use (I.E: flattening base added in an effective amount). Despite careful scrutiny of my initial correspondence, I am stuffed if I can see ANYWHERE where I have asked for MSDS sheets. Bob, this is exactly the sort of poor attention to detail that I detest. It certainly does NOT inspire confidence to ask one question, and receive an answer completely estranged from the topic. This is precisely why I wanted to 'idiot proof' the paint purchase as much as I can and utilise my color, which is available in spray cans. Unfortunately, this does mean I will need to muck around adding base myself. I will send a third email to Protec, enlightening them to the initial question, and maybe I might get a sensible answer........maybe not! Surely it's not too much to ask for a response to a simple question, without having to turn the whole thing into what I call a "trilogy in four parts" On a slightly happier note, if anybody wants a copy of MSDS for Protec Autofleet 609, 609 hardener or R199 Paraglaze, I can send them to you.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#9
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I downloaded Protecs data sheets . They make a 2 pack matt paint for the ADF vehicles and I asked them if they could mix up a certain green colour in that ADF flat finish . They replied NO , they only sell it in the current ADF colours listed .
They do have a good range of various paints . its worthwhile researching what they sell . Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#10
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