My Blitz's

[Phil Waterman]

If the filters have not been changed particularly the ones mounted horizontal in the frame rail tend to get slugged in very tight. The one on my C60L I don't think had been changed and it had to be removed by pulling the filter apart after the little pull wire pulled out.

Be sure to check the filter housing carefully after cleaning mine had several little pin holes on the bottom side. These didn't show until the inside had been cleaned to bare metal and the paint removed from the out side. They were easily weld by drilling the pin holes out then making a curved brass backer plate. With that clamped tight to the inside mig welded the holes and ground it smooth. Pressure tested to 60 psi with water no leak.

In the US the correct size filter comes with two gaskets, I'll try to find the most recent application cross over and filter numbers. There are two sizes of filter units that I have encountered on my CMPs small early, large late.

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

Scott

I usually soak the air cleaners in kero or petrol , then blow it out with compressed air , being careful not to disturb the wire inside. Petrol is rather nasty stuff, try to avoid spashing it onto your skin if you use it as a solvent.

[Mike K]

It's the same as a WW2 Jeep petrol filter . You might source a new element from one of the myriad Jeeps parts suppliers . But you might also get away with a good clean up , the element has lots of brass shim like things that you can dissassemble and clean .

MIKE

[Little Jo]

Scott

Your Fuel Filter is the same as on my 1942 MB Jeep. When I stripped it down I also had a lot of gunk in the bottom and it cleaned up really well and I spent a bit of time on cleaning the filter and all came up OK and I have not had any problems so far.

Cheers

Tony

[sth65pac]

Scott,

I have not used them but they would be of sufficient rating to handle all the electrical tasks as replacements for the originals.

Ian

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Wondering if anyone has used these ball toggle switches for their dash restorations?

They are made in the US by Leviton are SPST and have a rating of 3A @ 125v for the switch with leads and 6A @ 125v for the heavy duty switch.

Can be found on ebay.

[Mike K]

I think that steam pipe is there mainly for off road use. If the vehicle is pointing downhill for a time, the steam will accumulate at the rear of the head .

Not sure about that . Somebody else will know more

[aj.lec]

You need the original cast brackets that bolt on to chassis end

[Mike K]

The fuel sender units normally just need a clean up. You test them with a multimeter ..if you havent got one, they are a basic electrical test instrument .A cheap one will be OK for automotive use.

You place the multimeter leads on the wire resistor inside the sender and move the arm up and down and watch the resistance on the meter. Usually, you want it from around 1 to 50 ohms but it varies with different senders.

read this http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

The toggle switches look nice !

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Is there a way of testing without opening the unit? and where would I need to place the test leads of the multimeter?

Hi Scott

I'm sorry if i mislead you... I'm used to the LUCAS senders , you can remove the lid on them and get to the innards

OK the GM delco remy ? units . Yes you can test it without pulling it apart.

Put one lead on the HOT 6V connection and the other lead anywhere on the sender body , make sure the connections are clean . Thats it ..simple.

Sometimes the wire resistor and the wiper inside becomes oxidised and intermittent ..you may have to drill rivets to pull it to bits and clean it if it needs it.

One important thing to remember is: the sender and gauge rely on the truck body for a earth return ..It's far better to provide a seperate earth return wire for the sender to gauge unit in the dash ... just use one of the sender mount screws and run the earth wire alongside the HOT wire to the gauge where it is screwed onto the gauge earth mount

Mike

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Scott - looking at your images of the switch plates I am not sure whether they are correct. You need to remove them to see if my attached image fits.

The switches you are asking about, I am on my second box of fifty. Again look at my switch image where you can see five out of the six are Off/On switches whereas the Gas Switch is an On/On switch that took me over a year to source. There are plenty of On/On Bat Handle toggle switches but not Ball Handle. I have also replicated the small switch plates. I have a couple of complete sets left but then I am out of the On/On switch until I can find some more. On the other hand if you require the large switch plates, I have provisions for those as well. The only difference with the old and new switches is that the On/Off toggle does not stop in the centre. It rests above and below centre respectively.

Bob

[Mike K]

A common problem with sender units is: the rotating shaft has to make a earth connection to the sender units body .. Sometimes that shaft doesn't touch the body cleanly ..it's a intermittent connection as it rotates . Make sure you are touching the actual body of the sender with the probe , not just the shaft itself . If you are touching just the shaft, then your getting misleading results

AC= Albert Champion , the modern spark plug inverntor .... I think I am correct.