2011 at the Hammond Barn

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob and Bob

About that accelerator pivot bolt, whoever thought that going into the water jacket was a good idea need to have to work on the thing. In reading Rob's post about the thing binding I was planning to comment, but Bob beat me to it.

Yup my throttle linkage pivot crank seemed to bind. On my first major trip out with the new engine in BEAUTY the binding succeeded in walking the bolt all the way out going down the road. That sudden sweet smell as the antifreeze peed out on the exhaust pipe. Pulled over saw what the problem was waited for the engine and exhaust pipe to cool reinstalled the pivot crank with gasket cement and pulled out the wash up water hose from the shower in the truck and refilled the radiator.

I have the water hot water system for the shower set up with an outside hose so that I can use the hot water to clean parts in the shop 20' hose and you can also fill the radiator. Much easier than standing on the bumper trying to pour water out of a 5 gallon jerry can.

Nice work on the rework of the pivot crank, wish I'd though of that instead of spending a day making one out of bar stock.

Out to the shop now to run test the engine out of my HUP, already know the cam lift is even and inside reasonable limits from dial indicator test, now for a good compression test, know what the compression was 10 years ago, have to see what it is now. Also once the engine is running under controlled conditions on the test stand want to check the valve clearances to see how much they have worn, also got to see if I made an entry in the log as to when I last adjusted them.


Cheers Phi

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

Yesterday I thought I had your rough running nailed and was going to be able to post a video with sound of my engine doing the exact same thing with cause identified.

The key was the sound track but all my camera picked up was the howl of the fan, and when I went out this morning with a good sound recording unit I could not get the engine to repeat the performance.

But let me tell you what I found and is this something you have tested for or ruled out. Excessive fuel pressure 8psi + caused a ragged running with poor acceleration.

How did I get to this, running the 216, out of my HUP, on the test stand suddenly it started running rough without changing anything setting started checking all the gauges and when I looked at the fuel pressure gauge it was pegged. Turned off the electric fuel pump which is hooked in line with the mechanical and as soon as the engine bleed the pressure down to 4-5 psi of the mechanical pump, engine smooth right out. Turned the fuel pump back on engine started running ragged again. Looked down the carb you could even see a difference in the fuel spray plus fuel leaking. Today when I tried to repeat the problem the fuel float valve worked perfectly and seal and metered the fuel correctly.

Just another one of those fun little gremlins to track down.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

.... interesting observation....... we have no way of telling what pressure it is running at but will investigate..... he is running a standard mechanical pump with a removeable outbourd fuel tank.

When we described Rob's engine as running rough it may be missleading..... our choice of words may have been misleading.....

His engine developed a vibration..... that increses with rpm..... not strong vibration but a noticeable one..... as if something was out of round. Now the new spark plugs have greatly reduced that ill shaking....almost gone but not totally. I uspect that it would not even record on a microphone... the rough running vibration his much more felt than heard.

On the other hand my engine as a small persistent not regualr popping or puffing sound from the exhaust and can be heard an felt if you hold your hand by the outlet of the exhaust pipe.... I suspect a valve adjustment is needed....... hoping against all odds that I did not burn out or wear out a cam lobe on the start up......

On separate note...... I scored a spare Carter YF 966s carburator and I am having an elusive Zenith 28 228 carb rebuilt..... originally stock on 270 GMC.... it will be nice to see which runs best on the 261...... all of them will accept the stock 216 air breather. In time, pictures will follow.

Hang in there and thanks for the intellectual/mechanical dialogue.

Bob

[RHClarke]

Not much to report. Saturday was chilly but sunny. A good day for some interior economy. Bob and Grant puttered around the barn and the back field looking for accelerator linkage parts. I went through all of my spare parts in the shed and tried to improve the organization of the parts. I was quite surprised at the number of Ford parts I have laying about. They have to go...Later in the morning, the boys headed off to Embrun to visit the machine shop and to take in some lunch.

While they were away, I test fit the driver side door to the 45 HUP. There is an issue with the hinges - when the hinges are installed, the door won't shut. As previously mentioned, I think there were some assumptions made by the chaps who repaired my door and now the hinges do not fit properly.

Rather than tear apart a very nice 45 HUP door, I've decided to modify the hinges. I am not yet sure if I will have to lengthen the door side hinge arm or the frame side hinge arm. Time will tell.

As time was running out, I headed back to the barn to sweep out a winter's worth of dirt, mud, dust and sand. Not satisfied with that, I cleaned off the work bench and side shelf, which had become laden with parts from many small winter projects. Then, it was back to Ottawa. Funny thing, I was sure I could hear swearing coming from the direction of Hammond while I driving home.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

I think by now all most all CMP hinges are bent from a little to unusable. On my two Pattern 13s I resorted to making wedge shape shims that fit between the door post and the hinge. Using these I was able to get the doors into proper alignment.

Picture below is of the drivers side top hinge on my HUP shims have been in since 1978 when you look close they are not as pretty as they could be. When I reassemble the HUP plan to make new ones that will follow the shape of the hinge lip.

I'll take a picture of the shims alone and post it.

The next step would be to make new hinges which I think can be done. On my Pattern 12 the hinges were so shot that making them was the only way to have doors that opened. Whats on the 12 Cab now work well but need to work on making them look more original.

Cheers Phil

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Rob I think by now all most all CMP hinges are bent from a little to unusable. On my two Pattern 13s I resorted to making wedge shape shims that fit between the door post and the hinge.

Hi Phil,

As usual, you come up with such elegant and workable solutions! I'll try the shim solution this coming weekend. Bob had mentioned the possibility of shimming up the hinges, but I was fixated on how to shimmy the door side hinge, and couldn't see how it could be done. Just another example of not seeing the forest for the trees.

[Brian Gough]

Hi Phil & Rob,

Any thoughts on worn hinge pins being (at least) part of the sloppy fit problem?

Brian