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#1
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![]() Quote:
Turns out there is actually one in Saint John. I'll have to give em a call. |
#2
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ny the way. I published a story by Mike McKinley about Mutts and put in some additionsl info about Mutts in Cdn service, and in Vietnam, also a story about Mikes Mutt when he first got it.. Its in one of the Convoy Magazines..Mike should have a copy. In fact i think Mikes Mutt- yours- is on the cover
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I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, Straining upon the start. The game's afoot! |
#3
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Little bit more progress:
The Rolling Chassis and Body is complete minus the ROPS which is still waiting for a coat of Green along with a complete set of NOS Rims I found locally: With Tub and Suspension complete, I moved on to the Driveline and Powerpack. I decided to fully dismember the Differentials, soak and clean the internals, sandblast the Housings, reassemble, set Pinion preload and Backlash, and install new Seals: I then, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and painted the U-Joints. This sounds crazy for U-Joints, but replacing them all would be upwards of $200: Lastly, with the Engine Block and Cylinder Head gone to the shop, I sandblasted, cleaned and repainted all of the Engine components: Also, gutted, sandblasted, cleaned and rebuilt with NOS innards: When it comes to the Powerpack, I ended up choosing to refresh this Ford Rebuilt unit. When its all said and done it really wasn't too pricey as i'm doing all the wrench bending myself and having the Machine Shop handle to detailed work on stripped components: Engine = Free Overhaul Gasket/Seal Kit = $38 Intake Valves = $25 Exhaust Valves = $20 Piston Ring Kit = $20 Cam Bearings = $35 Crank Bearings = $45 Conn Rod Bearings = $42 Hot Tank Engine and Head = $60 Lap Valves = $24 Hone Cylinders = $15 Install new Freeze Plugs = $25 Crank and Cam Polish = $50 GRAND TOTAL = $400 So essentially, for $400, i'll be able to add some Oil and forget about it. That just leaves me with the Radiator. I have 3 here that i'm going to drop of to the Rad Shop and have them select the best one and go from there..... |
#4
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Scott,
It looks incredible. Who would have thunk that what you had to work with could turn out so nice, purely shows what can be accomplished when you got your own space, some skill, and a nice selection of hammers. When is it going to be road worthy? I'll be in town in a couple weeks, and might have a bottle of scotch to bust across her bow for ya. Cheers Rick |
#5
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![]() Not sure how much longer til it's running now. Ryan Adams took me for a burn in his M38 yesterday (windshield folded down in sunny -2* weather) and that really put a bug in my ass to finish it once my smile thawed out. Really it's only 2 full days of work left on it now. More of a money than time issue ![]() Shoot me an email or a call. If your still lacking the constitution for Scotch I've got a nice bottle of Napa Valley Designer Gin here. |
#6
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Moving on to the cleaner more gentlemanlike work, I started picking away at the Comms System:
Finally got the Cabling run nice and neat. Spent nearly hours cleaning the grunge off the rubber cords: C-2299 Mounted. I have a LS-454U Speaker on the Dash, you can see the cord plugged into the bottom. My "A" Set (524) will be mounted right above the C-2299, so I plugged it into the left side port on the 2299, with the "B" Set (GRC-160?) in the other: Mount for the GRC-160?: MX-6707s and the Utility Brackets all cleaned up, painted and ready for the ROPS. I painted the springs, as most I have seen in service were also painted over, so it wasn't an accident: "A" Set all cleaned up and ready to go: Then there is the Engine..... More on this in the coming days: |
#7
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Looking good! It's come a long way since I last saw it in the fall.
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__________________
Richard Law |
#8
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Getting really close now...
ROPs reinstalled along with all the rest of the Comms Gear: Just the Power Pack left now ![]() |
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