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  #1  
Old 01-02-11, 13:06
kevin powles's Avatar
kevin powles kevin powles is offline
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Default rivets.

Richard, When i did mine it wasnt a big enough challange and wanted to punish myself further, you have used coach bolts there, try getting a 5/16" truss head rivet and putting a thread on it aswell like i did, then make 100 more of them aswell as drilling and tapping out the 3/8" round head rivet like you have then you will wish you could master the rivet gun.

Its o.k. and looks fine with a bit of bashing over at the end but boy what a boring job it was doing 100.

You will need therapy at the end of it, if i did it again i would gear myself up for riveting, its also the correct way of doing it.

kev.
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3" Mortar Universal Carrier 1943 registered 06/06/2009.
1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, Caunter camo.
1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, light stone.
10 cwt wartime mortar trailer.
1943 Mk2 Daimler Dingo.
1943 Willys MB.
1936 Vickers MG carrier No1 Mk1 CMM 985.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-11, 13:26
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
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yup your right there kev I have the forge and snaps but getting the heads correct is an artform and a lost art at that one mistake and your drilling out rivets no second chances. You are right it is boring but i am spurred on at the moment to get my carrier finished before summer time.
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__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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  #3  
Old 01-02-11, 13:29
shaun shaun is offline
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They look great but i dont think its going to cost more than about £500 quid to get my rivets done. I did speak to an old mate not far from home who use to a lot for the local steam museum, he said i coul borrow his riveting kit but this guy Ben has found knows the process very well. i would rather spend half a day trailering my hull to him than 5 days going deaf. I will of course post the results on here once i have had the riveting done. Richie you need to pray for more snow so you can get stuck in the workshop behind the lathe ha ha ha
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Morris 1000 (ex mil)
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Harley Davidson MT 350 motor cycle
Universal carrier MK 1*1943 Ronson (under restoration)
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  #4  
Old 01-02-11, 13:33
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
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I've done quite a few hot rivets from 3/8" up to 3/4" dia. and it's not hard. There is a fairly steep learning curve but I would not consider doing it any other way now.
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  #5  
Old 01-02-11, 13:49
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
Richard Harrison
 
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hop in yer car and mosey up north then buddy
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is mos redintegro

__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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  #6  
Old 01-02-11, 15:16
eddy8men eddy8men is offline
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if you want to use rivets but are a bit wary of doing it hot, how about cold riveting with copper rivets, it would give you as long as like to fiddle about with them, personally i'm going to stick with the coach bolts but some might like the more original approach.

eddy
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  #7  
Old 03-02-11, 00:30
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
Richard Harrison
 
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i think if copper rivets were used alone they may sheer with the vibrations...same with aluminium i would guess. mind i bet they would be easier to peen over
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is mos redintegro

__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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  #8  
Old 03-02-11, 00:49
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is online now
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I used coach bolts and nuts on the inside. Once all the stuff (bins) are mounted inside the veh you really can't see that many nuts. Much easier to do and if I ever I get some original side plates I can then simply unbolt.
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