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#1
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These are some of the parts which will need attention.
R) upper guard rust.jpg R) lower guard-for repair.jpg Front panel rust.jpg I must admit I did get a little excited when I removed the cab rear panel, and underneath the "anti-squeak" was original paint that had not seen the light of day on over 65 years. Original paint color.jpg Ohh, before I forget. Couldn't see how to remove the steering column. Can anyone advise me how this is done, please? Am really praying that it doesn't require removal of the nut holding the steering wheel on. That nut is the MOST rusted nut I ever saw (most rusted without falling apart, that is) |
#2
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Just realised that the photo "R) upper guard rust" is wrong.
Actually L) upper guard ![]() |
#3
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Got a few more small bits off the truck today.
WD40'd the headlight bowls last week, and they came away without issue.....this week. Most parts will be going to a local sandblaster, but thought I would blast some of the most rusted parts just to see how bad they were. Hmmmmm...apart from getting VERY covered with black blast medium, discoverd two small areas of rust-through. Wouldn't expect trouble with repair though. N.B: Harry Connick Jnr would NOT have approved of my 'black face' look today. Also tried to remove bolts and screws from drivers door (door removed from truck last weekend). Same WD40 treatment, but much less joy than I had hoped for with the door hinge bolts and lock screws! Had to resort to grinder to get lock handle plate off. Was very careful NOT to damage plate, but now need set of 'easy-outs' and careful drilling to remedy. Several areas of metal fatigue were evident on door itself, but once again, should be easy to repair with brazing. About to phone my Father-in-law. He is a rather good welder :-) Why is it there is ALWAYS ONE BOLT that refuses to come out? Both door hinges have one bolt EACH that will not budge, and if I cant get them free, I will concede defeat and leave them there for the duration. ![]() Also removed the vents in nose panel. Easy job to do, UNLESS there is that one bolt again. Yep, thats right, was one in each of the vents hinges. No match for the grinder though. ![]() Am keeping all the mutilated bolts and screws so I know replacements will be exact match. One more thing. I am keen to buy a 'basket case' or damaged nose panel, to use as donor steel for several rust repairs in various spots. Would rather use original shape and gauge of steel for repairs. If you are in south east Queensland, and have a suitable (stuffed) nose panel you will sell, send me a message! Pictures to follow ![]() Tony B. |
#4
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Thanks for sharing your pictures and story Tony!
The floor plate reveals you have a Canadian build (as opposed to an Australian version) of the F15. To remove steering column means removing the driver's toeplate with all it's captive nuts which can be a pain. The nut holding the steering wheel on is UNF and thin which is a bit of a problem you'll have to tackle sooner or later. Always fun to find clean original paint under everything. Keep the pics and story coming, I'm sure there are lots of us waiting for the next instalment. ![]() ![]() Quote:
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#5
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In one way, I guess i'm blessed, as there was no foot plate on the truck when I got it. On the other hand, that means I gotta buy/make one later.
I have applying WD40 to steering wheel nut again today, and will buy a suitable socket?, spanner?, or wrench? to do the job next weekend. The steering wheel is not too bad, so I will be REALLY careful with removal of the wheel nut. On a slightly different note, I had a visit today from a gentleman who really knows his stuff with Blitz restorations. He rebuilt a Ford GT which I have seen locally. He pointed me in the right direction for a couple of people who have Blitz wrecks which might be available for purchase. Incredibly, one fellow is right here in Gympie, on a road I have been down many, many times but never saw an intact but rusting Blitz sitting RIGHT IN VIEW, though you wouldn't see it under the large scruffy tree and huge weeds. Until today that is. I went for a drive, followed the directions, and BUGGER ME, there it was!!!!!! I plan to visit in next couple of days. Mental Note: Must ask my wife to drive more.......so I can just scan the properties for goodies ![]() Thanks again Keith, Stay tuned. |
#6
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Hi Tony - WD40 is pretty useless. I have found that applying diesel and heat from an oxy plus tapping with a hammer will quite often shift that rust. I'll have a look in my shed in the morning as I know I have a floor plate. Just have to see if it is Ford or Chev. The other thing with sand blasting. Quite often numbers and unit signs are hidden under layers of paint. A gentle wet rub quite often reveals them.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
#7
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Thanks for the tip on diesel. I will get some tomorrow. I bought a small gas torch last week, just in case.
If you don't hear from me for a while......it just means the future burns are healing! And a big thanks for looking for floor plate, too. ![]() Will let you know how I go ![]() Tony Baker |
#8
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Not much Blitz work got done last weekend. Here's why:-
I had been given a 'tip off' by a fellow Blitz restorer, regarding a chap who may have some of the parts I am needing. The chap in question was contacted by me earlier in the week, and he told me that he recently had a sale on his property, when several intact Blitz trucks had been sold! He did however still have "a few bits" which may be of interest. I arranged a time, and went there on Saturday afternoon. The fellow still had at least 6 partially complete vehicles (many of them Ford), and numerous Blitz parts spread around his property. A considerable amount of the parts I need could be sourced from this farm alone, provided I can manage removal from the vehicles. At one stage during our meander through the acres, I pointed to a Ford radiator in very usable condition and asked about price. In reply he said he would need to check the value it would bring in SCRAP metal, and he said "after all theres no point in me selling it for $20.00, if it's worth $35.00 for scrap". He nearly floored me with his next comment that "I have a better one that you can buy, in the shed". Since returning home, and once the drooling stopped, I have been making a shopping list for my return trip in coming weeks. As if that wasn't enough, I had a phone call this afternoon from a fellow about 2-3hrs away who had heard I was looking for Ford Blitz parts. This guy has a complete F60L which he intended to restore but lost interest. He has two engines (one rebuilt some time ago), more doors than any Blitz needs (4 or 5 he thought), 20in wheels and even ORIGINAL DOOR CURTAINS and wheel carrier with toolbox. My wife is by no means impressed with my plan to visit in next couple of weeks to inspect, with view to purchase. Only snag might be cost of tilt-tray hire to get it back home. I also have a nasty feeling that this truck might be TOO GOOD for me to afford without organ donation! |
#9
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Looking forward to hearing and seeing this story unfold.
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#10
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With the way CMP parts are disappearing and the prices keep going up..impress the wife and tell her you are buying your pension plan..after all the prices are steadily rising along with the price of gold..
Buy it all all the stuff you can..sell or mortgage the kids..they are overhead anyway and tell her that you are acting business like..That will really impress her. Waiting results.. Well done. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
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