![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Yeh just me worrying the engines plummed to a oil cooler and everything just wanted to check it wasnt me after building it up id forgot to do sumthing also i havnt got the linings on the doors like shaun said they had so that would explaine a lot cheers for the info,
can get on and start to enjoy driving her now done 30 miles so far lol just working out the kinks and bumps and getting use to track slaps hahahah ![]() also sorry the thread was ment to say HOT DECKS not HOW ![]() |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Just remember that on the Mk1's at least, the asbestos lining was only on the R.S. engine covers. The ones on the L.S. were simply sheet metal.
When I re-did my covers the asbestos sheeting was badly discoloured by rust. I had to take them off anyways to clean up the metal, so when I put them back on I just switched around the sheets untill I got a nice clean one and made that as the outer one. They then looked NOS.
__________________
Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Yes, mine has always run hot too. The rad, oil cooler, themostats, timing and everything else that contributes to cooling has been re-built and still the heat. I think it's the nature of the beasts. My 'obsession' when running it is to touch the bottom of the rad and the elbows leading into the oil cooler element (both reachable by the driver) to confirm the 220 degree reading on the temp gauge. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I've seen a few carriers rebuilt without all the fan shrouds etc. not fitted.Then, they overheat, and you see them (the owners) wonder why.
The flatty is a hot running engine , because the exhausts run through the block. I have read, that they should run a mono grade oil because it is a better transferer of heat. (A lot of heat is conducted away through the oil. This is why they have a cooler) When the covers are on, the fan has to stuff all that air through those two square holes in the rear hull plate. When an engine is rebuilt it will generate heat much faster, and needs to transfer it away. This is achieved by attention to detail, descale the water jacket properly, dont take short cuts with the radiator, dont paint the radiator, and if you have to, us the proper paint (which transfers the heat faster that other paint) I'd definately use thermostats, and a coolant additive. (It increases heat transfer,and the boiling point, but can tend to help leaks happen) Remember these things work hard shifting 4 ton of carrier. P.s. Bruce you should also have three eyes, and the beginning of a tail (dont ask me to explain this)
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... Last edited by Lynn Eades; 04-09-10 at 09:39. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thats a valid point Lynn...... Martyn do you have the full shroud assembly on the fan ? without this the fan wont generate the suction it needs to draw the cold air through the rad and into the engine bay.
As for the heat, it was baking hot in the rear compartment of yours when we were cruising back home from the Armed Forces day.... it was a welcome breeze when i sat on the ammo tins so i was a bit higher up.... mind i reckon the boys who landed in Italy 1943 welcomed the warmth through the cold november / december ops..... i recall from reading a letter my grandfather had sent home, it was one of the coldest winters on record for Italy that year. ![]()
__________________
is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). Last edited by RichardT10829; 04-09-10 at 18:26. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
ok nope i have no shrouds she runs fine hasnt over heated just runs hot, i asked the radiator specialists about the shrouds and told him what it was in and everything and hes said the new core is a more efficiant one so it will cool better and how big the fan was etc etc, we made a template of the shrouds and it was only just covering the corners of the rad so it made no diffrance at all ,beside its some what cooler over here. like you say Bruce think it's the nature of the beasts, when i last drove it i had one door off and it ran cooler but with people in the back its hard to have a door off besides the amount of air that fan shifts its not wise to have a door off.but at the end of the day if your in my carrier prepair to cook hahahaha ( richard )
![]() |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Noted and edited!
__________________
Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mate
Don't worry they do run hot. The passengers in the back always moan, except in winter.!! Thats why T16's suffer from fuel vapourisation. Barry ![]() |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Winter hmmmm? How much ice do you need to move over frozen lakes?
I jokingly tell my friends I own a 4 tonne snowmobile. I wonder if they would sell me a pass to use the extensive winter trail system. Where we have ice roads here they regularly carry 5 tonne trucks. LOL of course the odd one does go through sometimes. As for oil I thought 30 weight oil was what these Ford Flatheads all used in the summer and 10 weight below -15F
__________________
Ralph Volkert UC 2Mk I* Upper Hull: CB 8075 Lower Hull: 8105 S/N: 9075 Date: Jun(est) 42 contract #: CDLV 213 1946 Willys Jeep 1974 Plymouth Road Runner 1987 Trans Am |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Castrol 20/50 weight oil, cause's no sludge on a cool running engine, for summer oil. any thinner oil for winter. JP
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|