T16 restoration starts in earnest

[RichardT10829]

Andrew its a rolled edge and is very hard to fabricate, the metal is 16swg these were made in a press and without it, its very hard to get the metal to form correctly without it deforming. the ones i did i bent over sectional then brazed in the slits so it looks like it has been pressed. my other thoughts were to use steel brake pipe slit it then weld it onto the sheet however when i compared it to an original item the diameter of the pipe was slightly too small..... mind unless you had one held up against an original you would not know.

it will cost you in the region of $400 US to get a pair from John, then shipping and customs charges on top.

perhaps David (Horsa) could knock you up some paper patterns of his then you could make some yourself and save some cash. thinking on also i think the T16 sand guards have like a right angle flat bar welded onto the outside to carry a tool or something.....you will see on Davids thread.

Rich

[andrew honychurch]

Thanks Richard. Fortunately I do have the originals, which are twisted and peppered so I imagine they will be good enough to use at patterns. I seem to recall that there is a special machine for forminh this . In fact I think it may have been detailed on the Mid West website. Ummh...nothing is straightforward with restorations is it?

My guess is we will have to dummy it as you suggest, welding the bead on afterwards. When my Daimler Armoured Car wings were fabricated the chap welded on the internal strengthening bead and you just could not tell afterwards. They were originally rolled as part of the process. andrew

[andrew honychurch]

A big day today, I managed to get out all the four axles ( as I call them ) . Not an easy job as most of the bolts and nuts were seriously corroded from having the best part of 20 years sitting with water inside the hull. Anyway, I can see some tapping and maybe thread inserts having to go back into the axle housings. When I took off the bogies I note there is a big rubber bush on the axle shaft which fits behind the bogie, i.e up tight against the rear flange,. I assume this is to hold in grease and keep out dirt ingress. One is missing althogether and several have seen better days. Can anyone advise whether these are obtainable?
Not long now before the hull is fully stripped and ready for blasting and welding. Another conundrum is that to do the welding properly it really needs blasting before and then I guess after all the welding and grinding its going to have to be done again which is a pain. Lets hope the blaster thinks it will be easier second time and charge me less.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by andrew honychurch

A big day today, I managed to get out all the four axles ( as I call them ) . Not an easy job as most of the bolts and nuts were seriously corroded from having the best part of 20 years sitting with water inside the hull. Anyway, I can see some tapping and maybe thread inserts having to go back into the axle housings. When I took off the bogies I note there is a big rubber bush on the axle shaft which fits behind the bogie, i.e up tight against the rear flange,. I assume this is to hold in grease and keep out dirt ingress. One is missing altogether and several have seen better days. Can anyone advise whether these are obtainable?
Not long now before the hull is fully stripped and ready for blasting and welding. Another conundrum is that to do the welding properly it really needs blasting before and then I guess after all the welding and grinding its going to have to be done again which is a pain. Lets hope the blaster thinks it will be easier second time and charge me less.

Andrew..
Some seals and bearings here..some are half track but some ate T16 too I think..

http://shop.ebay.com/xstuff/m.html

[Marc van Aalderen]

Originally Posted by andrew honychurch

Another conundrum is that to do the welding properly it really needs blasting before and then I guess after all the welding and grinding its going to have to be done again which is a pain. Lets hope the blaster thinks it will be easier second time and charge me less.

I think that it is better to remove paint and /or rust with an angle grinder using a sanding disc or wire brush and then weld. Saves you a lot of hasle and money. This is how I always do it and it works very well.

Cheers,

[RichardT10829]

As per Marks comments...Andrew i would just get an 80 grit paddle wheel for your grinder and run along the edges where the welds are, if your using a mig i advise using a gas shielded unit for better quality. then once done you can get the whole lot blasted and she should come up a pearler. i got quoted about £400 to get my tub blasted so opted for steel wire mandrells and grinders.... managed to get my hull back to shiney steel then used an etch primer followed by a few coats of red oxide and first coat of base (light stone)......must add this has only been done on the lower hull away from where i will be putting hot rivets.


have fun

[andrew honychurch]

Thanks for the input guys. Its good sound advice and I will take another look at the task to consider whether I can achive my goals without sandblasting twice. I am not too bothered about the new track covers in sides of the hull and over the rear axle as the metal is not badly corroded here and will clean up very well. Its really the floor. The bulkhead behind the driver is corroded in places right where it joins the floor, and the inboard brackets that support the axle brackets in the front need remanufacturing and welding to the floor, plus umpteen brackets and fixings on the floor. I am just concerned that I will not get the metal on these areas clean enough to weld effectively. Its certainly worth a try though as it will cost a lot less than sandblasting. I keep doing jobs on this project and convincing myself that I have done the worst job on the Carrier! Well today, I am sure the removal of the axles housings was the worst so far. As long as they go back in ok, then I feel I have broken the projects back. Loads to do , but I think I am past the worse, although not half way. I have attached a photo of the floor once more. Will post more soon.

[RichardT10829]

Plan Z would perhaps be just get the edges arounnd the areas you want to weld, if its just a small area most compressers will have sufficient CFM to power a cheap blaster unit from say "Clarke" or somewhere. Saves getting someone out or transporting the hull. Then once your ready you can get the entire hull done. you can also get some fantastic metal prep solutions, just make sure you rinse and then run a blow torch over the areas treated before you Mig it or you may poison yourself and the welds wont stick