New CMP owner

[Bob Carriere]

You have a desirable 261 cubic inch engine...... will check the serial number for dates...

....but you have HUP axles...... and probably a modified HUP frame......

Now don't let it worry you...... the truck looks good... and if it drives half as well ....just enjoy it.

Still puzzled how they got the gas pedal linkage from the right side to move the carb on the left side...... maybe a flexible throttle cable.....

Bob C.

[hrpearce]

Bob post #8 picture 3 shows the cable for the accelerator.

[Bob Carriere]

You are right Bob..... not sure I would want to trust a simple choke cable to stop and go traffic..... although I find the setup interesthingly simple.....

Now from the serial number of F1031L.... the engine is 1957 to 1961..... and decoding WILL require the casting numbers raised from the block..... should be 7 numbers like.....3769716...... seems that the serial number coding was abondonned after 1957 and you need the block casting number plus the serial numbers and possibly the head casting numbers (xxxx50)to sort out the puzzle.

Interesting vehicle......

Boob

[Eastblock]

I'm not too keen on that cable but mainly because it is frayed and the return spring is quite weak. The loud pedal is also very worn and wobbly so I'll have to replace it. The clutch uses Land Rover master and slave cylinders.

I don't mind paying for postage if I can get a suitable pulley for the pump from Canada. What diameter should it be and how would I get the old one off the pump?

The engine runs sweet and is mechanically very quiet. I read up on the history of it and was delighted to discover that it was designed by a Dane. I'm from Denmark myself.

I can make out some of the block numbers in a picture. It looks like 38368 and 5 or 7.

[Eastblock]

Looking at this it would appear I should have a much deeper core on the radiator.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Michael

You will need to check that casting number.....should be 7 digits..... the begining of 3836XXX is the proper sequence for a late 57-58 261 engine....

As for the pulley I may have one sitting in the barn... we never use them because we usually change the water pump.... we use a 216 water pump with an adapter plate. Your water pump looks like a typical in block 261 water pump BUT the pulley has been removed and replaced by a 216 pump pulley. Now on a water pump there is a machined adapter that is pressed on the pump shaft..... then the pulley bolts on by 4 1/4 bolts onto the adapter.

Note that the bolt pattern of the pulley you have is different from the original 261 larger pulley. You would have to obtain not just the original pulley but also the adapter backing....... you woudl no doubt need an hydraulic press and some serious ehat source (oxy-acet. torches) to remove the existing pulley..... unless you have a fully equipped garage, I would take the pump to a competent machine shop to do the change over.

I will post some pictures from home of the 261 set up..... or you can check Phil Waterman's excellent web site for tons of pics.

Meanwhile check those casting numbers.

Boob

[Eastblock]

Located this on Phil's site. I guess I need a pulley like the one in the picture on the left.



We have a workshop by the barn where I store the CMP. There is a hydraulic press so getting the pulley off should be possible. As long as I can get a hold of the required bits I'll get it sorted. No parts came with the vehicle.

Seeing how big the pulley should be I'm not surprised the cooling systems isn't efficient. It must be making bubbles rather than moving water around.