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#1
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Michael welcome to the club....seeing that picture again makes me think it could be my old machine...we did fit many years ago a body from a Humber 1 Ton ex Otterburn Army camp to a chassis cab...could be the same truck...I will check out the registration number and see what I can come up with....I may have swaped this for a mint Gaz 69...small world indeed!cheers malcolm
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mally B |
#2
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Hi Micheal
About your water problem first question does you truck have an over flow recovery tank? Should be on the left in front of the side vent above the fender (non-visible in your picture) or on the left in the wheel well. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#3
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Phil, I'll have to check. Some changes were made when the newer engine was fitted. There wasn't room for the fan so it has a pair of electric fans mounted on the front of the radiator. I've read that it can be a pulley size issue making the water pump spin too fast. I only just bought the CMP so I have not had any time to tinker with it yet.
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#4
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If it does have a tank check to be sure that radiator cap and all the connections to the radiator are air tight. If any of them leak air then as the engine cools the coolant in the tank will not be drawn back into the radiator.
Mismatching the pulley sizes can do a number on how the cooling system works. Take a look at my web site in particular http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ifications.htm which shows what can happen with engine change mixing of parts. The thermostat, can also cause the problem you mention, it needs to have a little by pass or the back of the block gets hot before the thermostat starts to open. Take a few pictures of how the cooling system is set up. I sure the collective heads full of knowledge will help spot the problems. Then you make a list of the solutions and put them in order of easiest to hardest. One other quick check is how thick is the core of the radiator. I've seen one with a Chevy car radiator instead of truck. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#5
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Here are some pictures. First one shows that there is no expansion vessel. That might explain why the water squirts out.
The bypass tube is kinked. That probably doesn't help Anyone know what this plug does? I need to get a hold of an air filer. Any suggestions where to get one? Because the engine has been replaced there wasn't enough room for the fan. Two small electric push fans have been mounted to the outside of the rad but they a cheap, inefficieint ones. I'll mount a 16" Kenlowe instead. The rad istself is in good nick (no gunk in it). Can anyone tell from the pictures exactly what engine I have? All I know is it says "Cheverolet" on the engine cover. |
#6
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You'd be wise to seal up that 1/2 dia hole on the valve cover too. No doubt it spits oil and vents fumes to the atmosphere. My M38A1 has a rebreather tube from the crackcase to the air intake just to burn that particulate matter.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#7
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I have the elbow joint for the cover and will fit it once I've got an airfilter sorted.
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#8
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Your temperature sender (circled in photo) is of the electric style rather than the original capillary tube design, not necessarily a problem since it looks as if some of the guages are also later replacements and the two could be properly matched.
You have said the engine is a later replacement, it is definitely NOT an original 216. It is a later 235 or 261. Indicated by the style of water pump, completely in/on the front of the block, not covering the block/head joint and also being inset in the block rather than completely on the front of the block. I am not sure, but think the unequal size pulleys may be normal for that style of water pump. Others can confirm. Also ndicated by the valve cover being held on by screws at the lower rim rather than 2 acorn nut on top. The Rochester B carb is consistent with these comments. Its smooth inlet is suited for the CMP slip-on air cleaner (compared to the later variants that were set up for an air cleaner held down by wingnut). Have you looked at www.stovebolt.com and www.inliners.org for engine information? |
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