Iltis Alternator Problems

[antonio]

So here's the update: as I've said in my first post, i have 2 iltis that should run, so I'll call them iltis 1 and 2.

Iltis 1

Problem: Alternator 1 is overcharging to 32 volts and more within 15-30 seconds of engine start (not sporadic).

-I've tried cleaning the battery terminals, the connection at the starter, the ground next to the master key and every connection on the alternator. -No change Haven't touched the split connection of the positive cable or the connection at the master switch.

-I've also played musical chair with 4 batteries, 3 originals for the iltis and one random one. -No change I havent tested the batteries with a hydrometer yet.

-I took the alternator 2 from Iltis 2 and pluged it in Iltis 1, (although it was after it burned up... i'll explain below) This was interesting, the voltage stabilized at around 30.4-30.5 for a bit and then dropped down to 24... my guess is it is now completly fried but the voltage regulator may still work?

-I plugged in again the brand new (or its supposed to be) alternator, and it still overcharges to 32v

Iltis 2

Problem: A constant voltage of 24v accross the batteries and (as i later found out) smoking of the alternator

-I thought it was ok to use even if the alternator didnt charge the batteries, left of about a minute, came back and the alternator 2 was smoking like crazy

-I used the alternator 1 from Iltis 1 and there was still no change in the voltage. I suspect a bad connection/wire from the alternator to the rest of the system.

Rob you mentioned that a bad connection somewhere could cause the buildup of voltage, but since i can successfully and easily start the engine, wouldn't that mean that the connecitons are good? Also, unless there's another power generation equipment other than the alternator, how could the voltage increase? The alternator is behind the voltage regulator, so technically it shouldn't be able to raise the voltage beyond what the regulator dictates?

Also, when the alternator recharges the battery, is the voltage supposed to go up to as much as 30v? Or does it stay constant at 28?

My guess is that both Alternator 1 and the new alternator have defective regulators, and that theres a bad connection from the alternator to the electrical system on Iltis 2. I'll try changing the regulator from Alt 2 to Alt 1 and see what happens. Unless, is there a way to check if the regulator works or not? Maybe with the ohm meter?

I'm open to any suggestions and thought.
Thanks for your help!

[rob love]

Most of the failures I saw were not from an overload, but rather from an open. The alternator needs feedback from the system to regulate the voltage. This is called the field. If it is not getting it's feedback then it tries to put out more voltage to get the necessary feedback. It will continue to climb the voltage until it self destructs.

The regulator should charge at 26 to 28 volt. I always found that once they do their climb above 32, they are gone. You will have to change the regulator.

Rpoolie's advice about taking your alt for a test is a good one. They can change the regulator if needed, and test the unit on a bench tester. If all connections are OK, and the batteries test out OK with the hydrometer, then you should be good to go.

[antonio]

I'll be bringing the alternators to a shop tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!

One last question, is it possible and if so how can i use the iltis on short distances without the alternator? Removing it would stop the water pump, and unplugging all of the wires and securing them causes the alternator to smoke... Is there a configuration that will allow me to use the jeep without the use of the alternator?

Thanks

[rob love]

Not without some fancy jury rigging. You could stick a different brand alternator on there as a temporary and not hook it up. There are also other 24V alternators out there off of highway tractors that could be made to fit and might be more reliable than the Leece Neville thats on there now.

The installation of this particular alternator was a Cdn change from the original German alternator. They were always a weak point, both for the lack of reliability of the alternator and for the poor mounting system, which was also prone to failures. Mind you, it wasn't so much the alternator that was at fault as the hidden location of the batteries, making it difficult for the operators to properly secure the terminals or service the batteries.

[antonio]

Hey i just got a new Leece Neville alternator, but it has a metal connection between the (+) and the #1D... since such a connection is not on any of my previous alternator, is that supposed to be there or was that used during the testing or something and it was forgotten?

[markcos]

is it a 100 amp or a 60 amp alt
??? they have differant regulators .

[rob love]

Originally Posted by antonio

Hey i just got a new Leece Neville alternator, but it has a metal connection between the (+) and the #1D... since such a connection is not on any of my previous alternator, is that supposed to be there or was that used during the testing or something and it was forgotten?

That is likely the bridge I was talking about earlier that was supposed to be removed. With it in place, the master battery switch is defeated and the vehicle will have power even with the key removed.

[antonio]

Hey Stuart,

Yes removing the bridge as rob said did make the new alternator work perfect. I seems like i tried originally to replace a bad alternator with another bad one!

I am still on the look out for the possibility to buy just the regulator tho, but the common places like Napa and midwest auto don't have such things.... After talking to a mechanic, he mentionned i could, if i'm desperate, buy an external 24v regulator and mount is externally... but i'll need to research that a bit more before doing it.

Thanks for all the help!

[rob love]

You flashed generators: I have yet to run across an alternator that ever needed it. Best bet is to scrap the entire Iltis and buy a M38A1.