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Hi Bob,
Odometer decals were very tedious, but forgiving. Could peel them back off and reposition them with no problems. Instructions for the odometer were incomplete. They tell you to align the decals over the existing numbers. That's fine if you still have numbers on the odometer wheels. If not, you need to align the zero on the decal with a dot on the right side of the odometer wheels for them to come out correctly. Gauge decals were a breeze after doing the speedometer. Had to be very careful not to bend the gauge needles when installing them, though. Two baffles on the Ford tank. Solid baffles with cut-outs on the corners. The Chev tank has one baffle with holes at the bottom and one solid partition for the reserve feature. Thanks , David Last edited by David DeWeese; 09-05-10 at 15:40. Reason: added info |
#2
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When applying decals of any kind,use warm water ..a sponge and just a drop of dishwasher detergent in it..wet the decal and the surface and place on surface..you can slide and move the decal all over the place and once you get it where you want it,lightly rub the air or water bubbles out from under the decal ,from the center out to the edges..After that just let it dry up.. It will then become stuck like camel shit to a prayer rug..' Used to do all my own service vehicles with Dealer supplied decal kits.. Goes on really well on a Saturday in the shop with a nice washed truck..and a flat or two of beer.. Water..a drop of detergent..a decal kit ..a big sponge..lots of beer..hog heaven..!! I would really have to be drunk to try putting decals on dry..I'd have them stuck all over my head..up my ass and all over the ceiling..shop floor and on the empty beer bottles..Dry decal application is not for the sober..! Enjoy your next decal application day..!! (Now that you have the proper formula..!!) (One more thing..pull the backing off the decal in a tub of water and put it on wet from there..) It won't stick to anything wet ,but will adhere to the surface of the object by surface tension and gravity..but will still slide around wet., Nothing worse than having a dry decal or piece of tape kink and stick to itself and won't let go..that is when you lose it and the kids start to run,...and the missus reaches for the bar of soap..for the mouth wash you know is coming.. Have fun.. ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#3
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Thanks for that information, Alex!
I did have to use a mist of glass cleaner on the gauge faces to slide the decals under the needles. Would have been almost impossible without it. Got the dash panel repaired and painted today, and instrument cluster installed for good. Had a question whether the little light fixture I have is original or not. Fits above the ignition switch in an existing hole, but every cab 11/12 interior photo I have doesn't show this light. It also isn't noted in the cab 11 wiring diagram either,(courtesy of Collin Stevens website). Thanks, David |
#4
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Looks like a dash light from a late cab 13 dash
Top half without the base ring
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Have a good one ![]() Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty" ![]() Last edited by aj.lec; 10-05-10 at 23:07. |
#5
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Hi David
From all the cab 11/12 and C8 I have seen I have never seen that little dash light. That being said it is old and looks right in that spot. Your light has a very diffirent configuration that those seen on cab 13 or even jeeps...... If it works and serves a purpose keep it in place..... makes your truck unique. Nice to catch up on your site on Monday morning and see the progress you are making..... keep it up. Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#6
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Thanks Andrew and Bob,
Was browsing around looking at cab 11/12 dash photos, and noticed this one has a hole in the same spot, but no light... Also noticed that the wiring diagram shows three instrument lights. The cluster only has two, so where is the third one supposed to be? I had been looking at the headlight high beam indicator light on the back of the cluster and thinking it was the third light... Oh well, I'll just paint it and keep it in. It looks good, serves a purpose and I don't want to weld the hole up and re-finish the dash again. Thanks, David |
#7
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David, that's the hole that the vacuum line for the wipers goes through then it runs up the inside of the windshield centre post to a tee above the windshield.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
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