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#1
13-04-10, 03:55
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Grant is correct......
The first picture up showed is defenitely a right hand side tank.....driver's side..... with the oval plate... but now I see how they have reversed the tanks from left to right to insure the filler cap is closer to the truck cab and near the outside for access...... at the same time it allowed to centralized the two oval plate for fuel line hook up....... wonder if they did that on purpose to screw up guys like us trying to restored them 65 years later.
Thanks for the oval brass plate close up...... my best two tanks are steel adn there are some marking differences in the letterring and reserve lever shape....... again I have two different type of levers for the reserve... one of which is identical to the 3 way valve. Have you tried to remove one of the oval plate...? we have been soaking a lesser example with GBS to loosen up rust and will try our hands with a hand held impact screwdriver...... Never ceases to amaze me all that is left to be learn about CMPs.... Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada 
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#2
13-04-10, 05:22
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Thanks David and Bob for the great information! Lots of food for thought now on the subject of fuel tanks for an 8cwt CMP.
Here's another photo that I thought was interesting... These tanks are still on their correct sides for a side mounted CMP tank configuration, but just mounted 90-degrees counter-clockwise on the C8 version. Photo courtesy of Mike Kelly's CD. Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 13-04-10 at 06:05. Reason: added text
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#3
13-04-10, 09:32
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Interesting
 Had a look through some more photos and would make more sense to have the fillers to the back if you had a chorehorse fitted as the bracket would foul when filling . Managed to find a factory chev photo of the passenger side that shows filler to rear I wonder if they fitted the tanks differently depending on body type and configuration ?
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Have a good one  Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty" 
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#4
13-04-10, 14:09
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Here's two factory pic closeups of the pass side filler holes. The Ford seems to have a bigger hole than the Chev. I went through my pics and it seems the cab 11s all used the same fillers on the tanks. The cab 12s and 13s used a longer filler neck. By the way the Ford is the one with the wood bracket under the tank.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#5
19-04-10, 00:28
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tanks a lot...
Hi,
Thank you Andrew and David for clearing things up with the factory photos. Spent the weekend working on my fuel tank. Tank luckily was dry inside with no varnish. Someone had pulled the drain plug years ago and it had saved the tank. Prepped and coated the inside of the tank with a quart of fuel tank sealer, sanded it down to bare metal, then primed and painted it. Fortunate to have at least one good tank to work with! As you can see, my other tank has a slight problem..... Spent the rest of the day fabricating the parking brake linkage that was missing under the fuel tank support rail. Thanks again Andrew and David for your postings on the linkages earlier in this thread. The information was a great help!  Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 26-04-10 at 02:31. Reason: added better photo
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#6
26-04-10, 03:29
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more tank work...
Hi,
My other tank on hand,(a Ford one), was badly rusted through, with 1/2 of the tank so bad that it could barely hold it's shape. Since my other tank was still serviceable, I decided to make a dummy tank of the second one. Opened the tank up on one end, cut out the rusted baffles, then wrapped the entire tank with duct tape. Dug out several pounds of debris, as this tank had been a mouse hotel/bathroom for decades. Ground out all the rust with an angle grinder and coated the inside with several layers of fibreglass matting, removed the duct tape, then worked the outside with body filler to slick it up. As I am going to try and reproduce a British Duple body for the C8, I installed a mock filler neck in the end of the tank for use with that type body. Will make another tank end plate and filler neck for the good tank, but will use adhesive to attach it as I don't want to modify a good original tank... Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 26-04-10 at 13:54.
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#7
09-05-10, 02:59
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instrument cluster....
Hi,
Had saved back,(what I thought was), a very nice instrument cluster for use on the C8. This one had a bare steel bezel around the glass instead of the chrome. Came from a '46 1.5 ton model. Pulled it apart to remove the dust, and every marking on the cluster glass dissolved with one light pass of a paper towell. The odometer numbers also fell off with just a touch... Ordered a new instrument cluster glass and gauge decal kit from Chevs of the '40s. It also contained the odometer decals. Cleaned everything, installed decals and painted all the components that needed it. Learned also that it is probably best to not drink beer during gauge and speedometer repairs..... Thanks, David
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