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#1
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In response to your question yes, easier to test the tank senders than it is to check the fuel gauge. I use a ohms meter just raise and lower the float arm and the ohms meter should change. I've got a couple of senders out I'll try and remember to check them and see what they read for resistance at the full and empty positions.
About the tank straps originally my 1945 HUP had a tar coated cloth band between the tank and the strap. While my 1942 C60S had rubber strips between the tank and the steel strap. Both had the woven ground straps that have been mentioned, though the all steel fuel line provides a pretty good ground back to the fuel tank selector and filter if you don't mind the idea of gas line being a electrical ground. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#2
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I remembered today to grab the fuel tank senders I have and take an ohms reading on them. I check two NOS ones I had on the shelf as well as the senders on my C60L.
The C60L which reads 1/2 full tanks .013 Ohm on one tank and 3/4 on the other at .034 Ohms The two NOS read .003 to .005 empty .017 to .019 half way and .034 to .036 full. Hope this helps. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#3
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thanks for the measurements phil I think my sender is dead so up to buy a new one. the trick with the oilpomp and the drill works fine thanks for the tipp guy's. after this I cranked the engine for the first time, that worked well. then I took some compression pressure measurements and this showed a little leaking in 2 cilinders (valves) so off go's the head again and the valves neaded a little bit more grinding and cleaning now they are oke. so the head is backon again and then try again. I also made the arge like new and placed it on the chassis now it starts looking more like a truck.
cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#4
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She is starting to look awesome Jap!!!!
Before you go beserk with the cab. Id whack the drive shaft in, rig up a ignition system, put in the radiator and take her for a quick spin. That way you can check how she brakes and drives. Not to mention the motivation it'll give you to keep at it. Not that you seem to be lacking in energy. ![]()
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. Last edited by Ganmain Tony; 26-05-10 at 00:22. |
#5
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Hi Jaap
Could you take a photo head on of the cab frame? Want to see if there are any differences in the drivers side rail between the 11 and 12 Cab. Truck is looking great. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#6
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Hi Phil
Anything I can measure up for you....? I have both and never noticed a difference..... Boob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#7
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Hi Bob
No just that the pictures Jaap posted makes the drivers side look straighter than the one on my Pat 12 or the frame you brought down for me. May just be the angle, or I wondered if there was a difference on the Pat 11&12 that we had not noticed. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 24-03-10 at 22:05. Reason: fix word |
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