1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[Grant Bowker]

The reason Phil suggested using the drill down the distributor mount hole is that by doing this you drive the oil pump directly without turning any other part of the engine so that if you have any dry bearing surfaces they will be lubricated before they are moved.

[cletrac (RIP)]

Any of those older motors were bypass oil filters so filling the filter isn't important since the filtered oil just returns to the oil pan.
If you use assembly lube when putting an engine together you can just spin it over on the starter with no spark until you get oil pressure then give it spark to fire up. You can even do this before you put the spark plugs in and then there's no compression to load the bearings before the oil hits.
The old drill on the pump drive works on motors with the drive gear on the distributor shaft but that's it.

[Bob Carriere]

<<<"The old drill on the pump drive works on motors with the drive gear on the distributor shaft but that's it. ">>>>

Hi Dave

I have never fully realized the differences on priming a 235/261 vs the original 216. As pointed out by Phil...... without the oil trough filled with oil the initial start up is much more critical.

So my question Dave is.... concerning the quote above.... would it not be beneficial to prime a 216 with a drill in the dizzy hole to make sure the oil passages are at least well filled similar to the practice used for a 235/261..?

I can vouch for the amount of pressure you can build up with a HD 3/8 inch electric drill.... the temporary mechanical gauge showed 40+ psi...just before the oil hoses to the external filter were blown off the fittings as I did not think I would need hose clamps just for a check up. With the 1/2 inch lines to the filter I lost over two quarts of oil on the floor.

BooB

Japp..... very nice job..... following your postings with interest in view of the similarity to my C15a cab 11