Phasing out of unleaded petrol..NSW..2011

[Jon Skagfeld]

I was made aware of the potential rubber deterioration in fuel systems WRT ethanol fuel.

I just throw in some Lead Additive every second or third tankful and (hopefully) no worries.

[Barry Churcher]

Jon, the lead additive is a good safety precaution but the ethanol is still in there. In the garage we only see problem vehicles of course but the number of older vehicles with fuel problems is increasing. Many vehicles we get to work on are almost impossible to find a carb or fuel pump kit for let alone find one with newer neoprene parts. Another alternative is to buy av gas.
Cheers,
Barry

[Howard]

If you don't want to run E10, then don't.
Use premium. Costs a bit more but doesn't go off as quick! Is not as hygroscopic. Contains less deposits.

(Remember when you had a choice of "Super" or "Standard"? Nobody used "Standard", only "Super" will do!! Why has this changed? Why do we insist on using the cheapest shite?)

Tony, as for your bio-diesel, you have to be VERY careful with modern diesel systems, especially common-rail technology. The local Nissan & Toyota dealers are doing a lot of diesel fuel system repairs, as are tractor workshops. Not a cheap repair.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Howard

Tony, as for your bio-diesel, you have to be VERY careful with modern diesel systems, especially common-rail technology.

Got that nutted out. The Cruiser has a 1HZ engine with rotary injector pump and was rebuilt with viton components around 2000 when Low Sulphur Diesel appeared. It will happily consume 100% Bio all day, and has done so now for nearly 90,000km.

Our Mazda6 has a common rail system, and weren't able to be released here until Aust Diesel comformed to Euro4 standards (known as Ultra-Low Sulphur Diesel). The standard for Euro4 fuel (and US ASTM D975) allows up to B5 blends, and I will only run B5 as that is what Mazda will cover under warranty. I have inquired about the injector costs for the Mazda, they are are$1675ea