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  #1  
Old 11-01-10, 21:44
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Before you install the distributor

Hi

Before you install the distributor, be sure to check that there is no play between the shaft and the gear. Common on Stovebolt 6 after 50 years.

Hold the bottom of the shaft and try to move the gear back and forth.

I've had one pin break on the road, replaced with a roll pin as a temporary fix. If the pin is loose you many find that it has worn both pin and shaft. If you have to replace the pin be sure to get a good tight fit on gear and shaft for the pin.

I'll attach a picture as soon as the manage attachments is working.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Copy of Distributer Pin 261 004.jpg (44.0 KB, 64 views)
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 12-01-10 at 00:36. Reason: hope photo will up load
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  #2  
Old 27-01-10, 18:59
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jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
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Default

thanks phil for the tip, I took the distributor out again and checked the gear and placed it backin again. everything is ready on the engine for now and the big moment is there, the engine go's back in the frame again after a year of waiting.
what a great moment to see the engine back on it's place now I can start to bolt on all the other parts and then try to start her up hopefully one day.
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg motor 3.jpg (44.7 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg plaatsen motor 1.jpg (66.0 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg plaatsen motor 3.jpg (51.9 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg 31 chassis.jpg (50.3 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg 34 chassis.jpg (61.3 KB, 92 views)
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  #3  
Old 22-02-10, 19:52
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jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
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now the engine is in place the generator and starter have to be installed.
the generator i took apart for cleaning and replaced the bearings, reconnect the wireing it was in big nead of this. for the starter I did the same.
the fuel pump, I cleaned to and gave it a new membrain, gasket and installed it in it's place. the waterpump was next it was in nead of a new bearing and gasket I used a press to install the new bearing and put the pump together and placed it on the engineblock I used liquit gasket so it (I hope) will not leak. the intake and exhaust manifolds were bolted on useing new gaskets and rings in the intake ports. there is a new thermo spring on the thermovalve in the exhaust (hot spot).
it starts to look like a engine again, but will it start ???
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg startmotor dynamo.jpg (48.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg startmotor.jpg (36.2 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg benzpomp.jpg (42.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg motor 9.jpg (44.1 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg motor 8.jpg (68.0 KB, 57 views)
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  #4  
Old 02-03-10, 19:04
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jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
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Default oil filter..

now it is time to put the oil filter in it's place, but where ?
on the civillion truck it was placed on the intake manifold, but on a cab 11 you not have that room under the hood. so I have to think of a other place that is cloose to the engine and I came up with this (see pictures).
on the bellhouse there are 2 wholes with tread that I could use to attach
the filter bracket. I had to ajust the filter a little bit so it is cloose to the engine. there is a 3 way block on the engine to house the oilline and the oil gauge line, this was difficult to get. for the bracket I used a angle iron to keap it simple and I am happy with this, easy to get to the filter.
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg olie filter 2.jpg (49.6 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg olie filter.jpg (47.5 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg olie filter 3.jpg (57.7 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg olie filter 4.jpg (39.1 KB, 83 views)
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  #5  
Old 02-03-10, 21:30
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Ganmain Tony Ganmain Tony is offline
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Thumbs up Beautiful

Very, very neat work Jap

I reckon there is a real talent in being able to make modifications look like original.

You've certainly done that

Great effort
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  #6  
Old 03-03-10, 15:55
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Oil Filter Location

First very neat work, but before you go much further be sure to mount the exhaust pipe and check for clearance. If your exhaust header pipe is the one that curves forward then back you should be fine. You may also find that you need to put a heat shield on your rubber lines.

The air flow is very restricted in the Pattern 11 and 12 Chevys and the passenger side engine cover is very tight to the exhaust manifold. The result is when the truck is run at load it gets real hot in this area.

I've got to find the link but there was an earlier thread about the later location of the military filters which was at the rear of the engine above the intake and exhaust not a convenient location for the Pattern 11 or 12.

Also I'll dig out some photos of the clearance issues on my Pat 12 C60L. The original filter location is in the left hand frame rail on it's side a really nasty place to drain clean and replace. Plus the oil lines run close to the exhaust.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 03-03-10 at 15:59. Reason: Add info
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  #7  
Old 03-03-10, 21:32
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jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
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Default

thanks phil for the info on the filter.
I think that to place the filter at the back of the intake manifold will not fit because the engine panel (speedo gauge) is to cloose to the engine so the filter will not fit I think. and I see the picture of the filter place on it's side in the frame rail, but I don't like that overthere.
the oillines are about 5 inches clear of the exhaust pipe, but a heat shield is not a bad thing I think, thanks phil.
so I hope the filter is not getting to hot on this place I will keep an eye on it.
thanks jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg uitlaat 1.jpg (57.0 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg uitlaat 2.jpg (63.2 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0014.jpg (93.4 KB, 54 views)
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