![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ron, it's possible that AT gun shields used high carbon rivets as these would harden to a degree when formed.
We had no problem drilling out the Ram tank hull rivets.
__________________
Adrian Barrell |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
i have had similar issues with my carrier rivets specifiaclly the gunners side rear compartment armour. which is countersunk on both sides. i used a slitting disc to take the heads off then as you say Ron heated up the remains and punched them out.
__________________
is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard why not give Denny Thomson a ring...he restored a carrier and will probably be able to lend you the required tools for same Happy new year...malcolm in the icy snow bound wastes of North-Northumberland
![]()
__________________
mally B |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks for the reply gents. You learn something every day
![]() |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
my tooling method worked for doing one carrier just that we had to redo the cups and modify them to get the perfect formed rivet head but after doing one carrier they were starting to crack around the cup even after re hardening them mind you they do take a good pounding so to speek.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Hi Adrian, Were they 3/4" rivets? Presume you used a mag base drill. Did you remove the head from one side first? And did you use drills or annular cutters (Rotobroach)? Just wondering cos with my Grant hull out in the bush I used Oxy to slice off a head and we pushed some out with a pneumatic Rivet Buster when cooled when we had two people (and enough PSI). But then for the rest I needed to get out I cut the other head off too and used a packet of 3/16" drills and an air drill coupled to a modified drill press with some suds to drill the centres and then Oxy'd a "Y" so they'd collapse and then pushed the remains out with a hammer and punch while still hot. Tiny bit of damage to the plate or angle where I wasn't precise with the oxy. Interestingly 3/16" was the minimum drill size that would allow clear oxy penetration through the length of the rivet. Regards Alex |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Alex,
you pretty much summed it up! Other than using small drills that is. We used a magbroach but using a drillbit of about 5/8". Cut off one head, grind flat, drill through to about the thickness of plate and then punch out. The punch running inside the rivet with its end against the remaining head. We had a few that punched out ok without drilling and some that required cutting in a similar way to your description. All good fun!
__________________
Adrian Barrell |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Cheers Adrian!
Regards Alex |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
It wont be available to everyone, but I used an arc/air gouger to remove the stainless welds from my hull. It would work well for removing rivets too.
As far as tooling goes, I have made up a die for a pneumatic rivet gun. I turned it up on a lathe, out of 4140 (or maybe 4340) the advantage of which, it work hardens with use.
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|