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#1
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Hello Yaap,
Have a Good NEW YEAR as well. Keith & Nel ![]() Well done with the truck. Anything going on May the 5th in Holland?.
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Keith |
#2
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thanks for the info alex. the guy's at the machineshop took care of that so thats easy for me. keith I send you a list as soon as possible.
about the engine now, I putt in the pistons very carefulley and connected them to the crankshaft then it was time to putt the oilpan in place, for this I made the gasgets my self, out off cork. then it was painting time grey this time. after it was dry I placed the head on the block and torgued the bolts and placed the valve rod's back in place. I ajusted the valve rocker play, a little bit more open than by the book (cold engine) and ajust this later (warm engine). so thats that for now back inside and have a ![]() cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#3
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Jaap, if you installed the pistons yourself, you'd need to set the rod bearing clearance yourself by putting in the proper amount of shims between the connecting rod and the cap. If the shop didn't assemble it, there's no way they could tell what the rod bearing clearance would be. Did you just get the main journals ground or the connecting rod journals too?
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#4
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david thanks for your technical info and tips. the machine shop have done the main journals only, the connecting rod journals didn't need any work accept some polishing. so I could use the same rod's and shims for each bearing. I checked them anyway, as is stated in the manual.
I took the distributor apart to, it neaded cleaning and new springs inside. after this I placed it back on the engine making sure the timing mark is on the 5 degree point on the flywheel and the distributor rotor is pointing to the 1 cilinder position mark i made before i took it out ( see the manual). this has to be done right to make sure the sparkplug's get there spark on the right time, but you know this allready. thats it for now ![]() cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#5
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Hi
Before you install the distributor, be sure to check that there is no play between the shaft and the gear. Common on Stovebolt 6 after 50 years. Hold the bottom of the shaft and try to move the gear back and forth. I've had one pin break on the road, replaced with a roll pin as a temporary fix. If the pin is loose you many find that it has worn both pin and shaft. If you have to replace the pin be sure to get a good tight fit on gear and shaft for the pin. I'll attach a picture as soon as the manage attachments is working.
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 12-01-10 at 00:36. Reason: hope photo will up load |
#6
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thanks phil for the tip, I took the distributor out again and checked the gear and placed it backin again. everything is ready on the engine for now and the big moment is there, the engine go's back in the frame again after a year of waiting.
![]() what a great moment to see the engine back on it's place now I can start to bolt on all the other parts and then try to start her up hopefully one day. cheers jaap ![]() ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#7
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now the engine is in place the generator and starter have to be installed.
the generator i took apart for cleaning and replaced the bearings, reconnect the wireing it was in big nead of this. for the starter I did the same. the fuel pump, I cleaned to and gave it a new membrain, gasket and installed it in it's place. the waterpump was next it was in nead of a new bearing and gasket I used a press to install the new bearing and put the pump together and placed it on the engineblock I used liquit gasket so it (I hope) will not leak. the intake and exhaust manifolds were bolted on useing new gaskets and rings in the intake ports. there is a new thermo spring on the thermovalve in the exhaust (hot spot). it starts to look like a engine again, but will it start ??? cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
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