MLU FORUM  

Go Back   MLU FORUM > MILITARY VEHICLES > The Restoration Forum

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 27-12-09, 17:43
Keith Brooker's Avatar
Keith Brooker Keith Brooker is offline
Morris C8
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Portugal
Posts: 292
Default Happy new year

Hello Yaap,
Have a Good NEW YEAR as well.
Keith & Nel

Well done with the truck. Anything going on May the 5th in Holland?.
__________________
Keith
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-01-10, 19:13
jaap de wit's Avatar
jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: south part of holland
Posts: 163
Default more engine ...

thanks for the info alex. the guy's at the machineshop took care of that so thats easy for me. keith I send you a list as soon as possible.
about the engine now, I putt in the pistons very carefulley and connected them to the crankshaft then it was time to putt the oilpan in place, for this I made the gasgets my self, out off cork. then it was painting time grey this time. after it was dry I placed the head on the block and torgued the bolts and placed the valve rod's back in place.
I ajusted the valve rocker play, a little bit more open than by the book (cold engine) and ajust this later (warm engine). so thats that for now back inside and have a
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg motor 2.jpg (40.2 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg motor 4.jpg (48.9 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg kopbouten aanhalen.jpg (43.6 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg motor 6.jpg (48.6 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg klepstellen.jpg (75.3 KB, 95 views)
__________________
1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.

Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-01-10, 22:17
cletrac (RIP)'s Avatar
cletrac (RIP) cletrac (RIP) is offline
David Pope
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Eston, Sask, Canada
Posts: 2,249
Default

Jaap, if you installed the pistons yourself, you'd need to set the rod bearing clearance yourself by putting in the proper amount of shims between the connecting rod and the cap. If the shop didn't assemble it, there's no way they could tell what the rod bearing clearance would be. Did you just get the main journals ground or the connecting rod journals too?
__________________
1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-01-10, 19:10
jaap de wit's Avatar
jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: south part of holland
Posts: 163
Default

david thanks for your technical info and tips. the machine shop have done the main journals only, the connecting rod journals didn't need any work accept some polishing. so I could use the same rod's and shims for each bearing. I checked them anyway, as is stated in the manual.
I took the distributor apart to, it neaded cleaning and new springs inside.
after this I placed it back on the engine making sure the timing mark is on the 5 degree point on the flywheel and the distributor rotor is pointing to the 1 cilinder position mark i made before i took it out ( see the manual).
this has to be done right to make sure the sparkplug's get there spark on the right time, but you know this allready. thats it for now
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg distributor.jpg (81.9 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg motor 7.jpg (42.2 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg motor 7 (2).jpg (51.5 KB, 82 views)
__________________
1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-01-10, 21:44
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 3,929
Default Before you install the distributor

Hi

Before you install the distributor, be sure to check that there is no play between the shaft and the gear. Common on Stovebolt 6 after 50 years.

Hold the bottom of the shaft and try to move the gear back and forth.

I've had one pin break on the road, replaced with a roll pin as a temporary fix. If the pin is loose you many find that it has worn both pin and shaft. If you have to replace the pin be sure to get a good tight fit on gear and shaft for the pin.

I'll attach a picture as soon as the manage attachments is working.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Copy of Distributer Pin 261 004.jpg (44.0 KB, 64 views)
__________________
Phil Waterman
`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com

Last edited by Phil Waterman; 12-01-10 at 00:36. Reason: hope photo will up load
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 27-01-10, 18:59
jaap de wit's Avatar
jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: south part of holland
Posts: 163
Default

thanks phil for the tip, I took the distributor out again and checked the gear and placed it backin again. everything is ready on the engine for now and the big moment is there, the engine go's back in the frame again after a year of waiting.
what a great moment to see the engine back on it's place now I can start to bolt on all the other parts and then try to start her up hopefully one day.
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg motor 3.jpg (44.7 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg plaatsen motor 1.jpg (66.0 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg plaatsen motor 3.jpg (51.9 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg 31 chassis.jpg (50.3 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg 34 chassis.jpg (61.3 KB, 92 views)
__________________
1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 22-02-10, 19:52
jaap de wit's Avatar
jaap de wit jaap de wit is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: south part of holland
Posts: 163
Default

now the engine is in place the generator and starter have to be installed.
the generator i took apart for cleaning and replaced the bearings, reconnect the wireing it was in big nead of this. for the starter I did the same.
the fuel pump, I cleaned to and gave it a new membrain, gasket and installed it in it's place. the waterpump was next it was in nead of a new bearing and gasket I used a press to install the new bearing and put the pump together and placed it on the engineblock I used liquit gasket so it (I hope) will not leak. the intake and exhaust manifolds were bolted on useing new gaskets and rings in the intake ports. there is a new thermo spring on the thermovalve in the exhaust (hot spot).
it starts to look like a engine again, but will it start ???
cheers jaap
Attached Images
File Type: jpg startmotor dynamo.jpg (48.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg startmotor.jpg (36.2 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg benzpomp.jpg (42.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg motor 9.jpg (44.1 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg motor 8.jpg (68.0 KB, 57 views)
__________________
1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +2. The time now is 01:58.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Maple Leaf Up, 2003-2016