1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[jaap de wit]

first i want to wish everybody a happy new year and good luck on all the restorations that going to be done this year.

now it is very cold in holland so you can't do much, but i try anyway so I put the front window together. for the rubbers around the glass I used the same ones for the jeep, I used soap to get them in the frame and this works fine.
after some work the window was together again. after this I start with the engine crankshaft and bolted the flywheel on to it (watching my marks I made) and then placed it in the engine on it's new bearings.
I fastend the cups and it turns nicely. I also placed new expantion plugs in the side of the engine. I also putt the oilpomp and lines back in place and a new oil screen form dirk (it was still in it's original paper).
cheers jaap

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Great job and Happy new year to you too..
Just a little info on the proper tecnique on bearing adjustment..
You probably have done all this a thousand times but just a refresher in case you forgot something from too many Christmas Heinikens..
Alex

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-...learances.html
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If you are going to measure a crankshaft, assemble the engine together with the crankshaft installed with the new bearing inserts in the block and main caps. Make sure all the caps are numbered, in order and installed properly with the arrows pointing forward. All fasteners/bolts will need to be torqued to specification.
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Step 2
Loosen the bolts of the bearing cap that you want to check clearance on. Remove the bolts and the cap. Wipe assembly oil off of the surface of the crankshaft where you want to check for clearance, use a clean lint free paper towel or cloth.
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Step 3
Tear off a piece of plastigage. You will need to open the paper to remove the plastigage, place the plastigage across the surface of crankshaft. Try to position the plastigage in the center of the journal surface. Install the bearing cap and torque bolts to specification, remove the bolts and the bearing cap. You will see the crushed plastigage on the journal.
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Step 4
Using the paper that came with the plastigage, use the scale on the side of the wrapper to measure the crushed plastigage. Compare your measurement to the clearance specification, if you are within range then you are ok to assemble. If the measurement falls between two sizes then you can estimate what the size in between is.

[Keith Brooker]

Hello Yaap,
Have a Good NEW YEAR as well.
Keith & Nel

Well done with the truck. Anything going on May the 5th in Holland?.

[jaap de wit]

thanks for the info alex. the guy's at the machineshop took care of that so thats easy for me. keith I send you a list as soon as possible.
about the engine now, I putt in the pistons very carefulley and connected them to the crankshaft then it was time to putt the oilpan in place, for this I made the gasgets my self, out off cork. then it was painting time grey this time. after it was dry I placed the head on the block and torgued the bolts and placed the valve rod's back in place.
I ajusted the valve rocker play, a little bit more open than by the book (cold engine) and ajust this later (warm engine). so thats that for now back inside and have a
cheers jaap

[cletrac (RIP)]

Jaap, if you installed the pistons yourself, you'd need to set the rod bearing clearance yourself by putting in the proper amount of shims between the connecting rod and the cap. If the shop didn't assemble it, there's no way they could tell what the rod bearing clearance would be. Did you just get the main journals ground or the connecting rod journals too?

[jaap de wit]

david thanks for your technical info and tips. the machine shop have done the main journals only, the connecting rod journals didn't need any work accept some polishing. so I could use the same rod's and shims for each bearing. I checked them anyway, as is stated in the manual.
I took the distributor apart to, it neaded cleaning and new springs inside.
after this I placed it back on the engine making sure the timing mark is on the 5 degree point on the flywheel and the distributor rotor is pointing to the 1 cilinder position mark i made before i took it out ( see the manual).
this has to be done right to make sure the sparkplug's get there spark on the right time, but you know this allready. thats it for now
cheers jaap

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Before you install the distributor, be sure to check that there is no play between the shaft and the gear. Common on Stovebolt 6 after 50 years.

Hold the bottom of the shaft and try to move the gear back and forth.

I've had one pin break on the road, replaced with a roll pin as a temporary fix. If the pin is loose you many find that it has worn both pin and shaft. If you have to replace the pin be sure to get a good tight fit on gear and shaft for the pin.

I'll attach a picture as soon as the manage attachments is working.