combat wheel info

[Corey Myronuk]

i have some inquries out to the suppliers in the links you posted.maybe they'll be able to line us up with spares from the India pattern trucks lol.

worst case i'll head over to a friends place,try and get him to cnc us some.
does anyone have any intreest in these or other small parts we can bang out?

if so let me know.


thanks for your responses.

[Bob Carriere]

The stud / nut problem for CMP rims is a problem shared by a lot of us..... if a suitable replacement could be sourced or made with CNC it would be popular.

We have given up trying to find the elusive taps and dies from EBay..... would be nice if someone spots them to post on the For Sale section......

We have numerous rims at the banr that have damaged studs...... some were so rusted....see welded with road salt..... that when we applied heat and the torwue wrench the nuts came off but the thread had "galled" almost smooth on the nut and on the stud.

Our searches for available modern truck wheel studs showed they were not available in the ODD 7/8...... 3/4 and 1 inch were available.

On a 20 inch rim the studs have a mushroom cap and would be more readily removable than the 16 tappered flush welded studs which would require fancy drilling.

I acquired a rolling Ford F15a rolling frame a while back... on all 4 16 inch rim the rim studs had been replaced with large course thread bolts and nuts.... looks weird....but... the bolt head on the back side did not intefere with the rims installation..... we are using them as yard tires for moving frames carcasses.

Boob

[BCBlitz]

So does anyone have actual measurments or pics of a good or NOS one to use as a example ? both for 15cwt and the larger 30 and 60 cwt ?

there has to be a stud out there that would work bot o 15cwt and larger trucks

Now the search is on, I love a challange to find stuff, any more info and pics or measurments would help.

[Grant Bowker]

15 and 30 cwt both used 16 inch rims and to the best of my knowledge, the same studs (almost flush on the innner face). The 60 cwt and FAT used 20 inch that had mushroom headed studs. Feel free to post the dimensions from your best studs for our benefit. When you find a modern source there will be many appreciative CMP owners. Even better if the source has branches in North America, Europe and Australia and elsewhere so we don't have to pay large for shipping, handling, Customs etc.

[Lynn Eades]

BSF is the fine thread as opposed to whitworth which is the coarse British thread. both have a 55 degree included angle.with a rounded valley, and flat crests, while UNC/UNF have a 60 degee included angle, with flat valleys and flat crests. Thats how I understnd it anyway.
On thread forms. A turned thread from a lathe etc, will not be as strong as a roll formed thread (which the originals probably were) because the "grain' in the metal is cut by the lathe tool, whereas the grain in the roll formed thread follows the profile of the thread.
I think many "British Motor Lorries" have used 7/8 BSF threaded wheelstuds.(often 10 stud)

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

BSF is the fine thread as opposed to whitworth which is the coarse British thread. both have a 55 degree included angle.with a rounded valley, and flat crests, while UNC/UNF have a 60 degee included angle, with flat valleys and flat crests. Thats how I understnd it anyway.
On thread forms. A turned thread from a lathe etc, will not be as strong as a roll formed thread (which the originals probably were) because the "grain' in the metal is cut by the lathe tool, whereas the grain in the roll formed thread follows the profile of the thread.
I think many "British Motor Lorries" have used 7/8 BSF threaded wheelstuds.(often 10 stud)

I think I'm starting to understand better, but I have seen references to BSW fine (usually with the word obsolete included) one web site is http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/whit...ne-thread.html
I'm with you that I wouldn't choose a cut thread for maximum strength, but I might be willing to turn the head of a rolled bolt to make a mushroom or tapered head to weld to the rim. After all, the metallurgy can be altered by the act of welding the stud in place onto the rim so this might not cause a serious loss of strength. Also, the weld is as much to stop the bolt from turnig as it is to stop it pulling through the rim.

[Paul Singleton]

Dormer still lists a die in their catalogue.

http://www.dormertools.com/

It is on page 23 in the catalogue.

http://www.dormertools.com/sandvik/2...et/s003591.nsf


F350

BSF TPI e-Code
7/8 11 22.23 2“ 5/8 F3507/8X2

● Adjustable Dies ●

Paul

[cletrac (RIP)]

Maybe it's the prairie climate but I haven't come across a stripped or broken stud yet on my collection of CMPs. One rear wheel on the HUP had come off on the previous owner when hauling about 100 bushels of grain and he welded in standard bolts to replace them. I just found another complete hub setup to fix it. The wheel came from Yellowknife (1300 miles away) but you can't let something like that stop you.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

The stud / nut problem for CMP rims is a problem shared by a lot of us..... if a suitable replacement could be sourced or made with CNC it would be popular.

We have given up trying to find the elusive taps and dies from EBay..... would be nice if someone spots them to post on the For Sale section......

Boob

Robert Pearce has done just that for you Boobie